what kind of holder would i need etc and any tips would be great. i am making a hydrangea artificial bouquet because the flowers arnt out at the time of my wedding and no one makes hydrangeas in a tear drop..
DIY wedding teardrop bouquets?
You will want a foam holder with an angled cage such as
http://www.profoams.com/Images/Accessori...
Hydrangea bouquets in a tear drop shape are going to be rare because it is very difficult to get hydranges (big and round) to be any shape but round.
Using artificial flowers will actually make this easier for you because you can trim the flowers to fit the shape you imagine.
--- if you trimmed a fresh hydrangea that small it probably wouldnt be sturdy enough to survive. ----------
good luck.
Reply:Years ago, it used to be called a cascade.
What you want to do is wrap all the stems with floral tape. You will stretch it slightly as you wrap %26amp; that will cause the tape to adhere to itself.
If the stems aren't long enough you need to add some floral wire to them. Do this to the leaves, as well.
Then you will assemble the bouquet. Place the flowers in a pleasing design, from the side it will look like half a ball. Then add flowers to make the teardrop shape. When you get it to where you like it, remove the flowers one at a time, dip them in some white glue %26amp; re-insert the stems into the holder.
Visit Michael's or a Hobby Lobby %26amp; take a look at some of their floral books, to get some ideas and more info.
Reply:You just place them in the holder and it sticks in the oasis. You will not have a problem...I just bought awhole bunch of pink and green hydrangeas I love them...you can also use artificial flower glue so you know they will stick and stay.
Reply:You could also get come bouquet jewelry/crystals to put into the bouquet to make it sparkle and pretty. Im getting a couple of off ebay, they have alot of different types that you could choose from.
Reply:Check this out:
http://www.marthastewart.com/portal/site...
???
Monday, January 30, 2012
Wedding centrepieces- green/cream/chocolate brown colour theme?
My wedding theme colours are apple green, cream, and chocolate brown.. my preferred flowers are hydrangeas, mums, and herbs...
I am looking for ideas (with pix) for wedding centrepieces that are cheap, and the colours I need, I am flexible on the type of flowers (tho I really love mums and hydrangeas, lol)...
If you know of any websites with pix I can check out for ideas, or of any specific pix or links of centrepieces in my theme, please pass along the link!
PS- wedding is in 4 months... thanks!
Wedding centrepieces- green/cream/chocolate brown colour theme?
These are pretty unique
http://ideasbyjoy.blogspot.com/2007/05/t...
http://www.flickr.com/photos/glassslippe...
Reply:hmmm, i like the hydranges and mums but together you have to very lush flowers and they tend to look busy together. I would suggesting keeping the hydrangeas and accenting it with a more delicate flower like a lilly, peony, anenomes...
this is an example of using hydrangeas, button mums and fiddlbacks (fernlings) if you added some white anemones i think that would be beutiful....
http://www.weddingbee.com/wp-content/upl...
Reply:I love the herbs idea, as well as the color scheme you picked. This is what I digged up, personally liked, and thought was possible for 4-months til the wedding.
http://www.bhg.com/gardening/vegetable/h...
http://www.barillaus.com/Home/Publishing...
http://bp0.blogger.com/_aWBudCkgDeg/Rxal...
The last one downloads to the desktop. My favourite is the second one.
Reply:Do not let people sway your color choice. I just read an article on the new "it" wedding color schemes and that was one of them, so bravo! I can't find the website anymore, but they had pictures of centerpieces that had white and offwhite flowers and green hydrangeas. I believe there was some pink mixed in.
I love the green apples used in the post above!
Reply:Sounds like a cool color combo. I like the link provided above by Gracie M (the first one) The apples in the centerpeices is neat. Especially the more simple ones with the "fish bowl" and the apple and the rocks. You could replace the rock with brown candy (choco pieces or M%26amp;M's that are all brown with your initials on them).
Reply:I'm telling you they are not going to be thinking "oh, she's so beautiful!" They'll be thinking, "What the hell was she thinking?" You colors are overwhelming and are going to distract the importance of the event, your wedding. That green has to go.
Reply:Try Google Images. They'll have thousands of images to choose from. Just adjust what you see according to your budget.
Ummm, those colors make me think of chocolate mints!
I am looking for ideas (with pix) for wedding centrepieces that are cheap, and the colours I need, I am flexible on the type of flowers (tho I really love mums and hydrangeas, lol)...
If you know of any websites with pix I can check out for ideas, or of any specific pix or links of centrepieces in my theme, please pass along the link!
PS- wedding is in 4 months... thanks!
Wedding centrepieces- green/cream/chocolate brown colour theme?
These are pretty unique
http://ideasbyjoy.blogspot.com/2007/05/t...
http://www.flickr.com/photos/glassslippe...
Reply:hmmm, i like the hydranges and mums but together you have to very lush flowers and they tend to look busy together. I would suggesting keeping the hydrangeas and accenting it with a more delicate flower like a lilly, peony, anenomes...
this is an example of using hydrangeas, button mums and fiddlbacks (fernlings) if you added some white anemones i think that would be beutiful....
http://www.weddingbee.com/wp-content/upl...
Reply:I love the herbs idea, as well as the color scheme you picked. This is what I digged up, personally liked, and thought was possible for 4-months til the wedding.
http://www.bhg.com/gardening/vegetable/h...
http://www.barillaus.com/Home/Publishing...
http://bp0.blogger.com/_aWBudCkgDeg/Rxal...
The last one downloads to the desktop. My favourite is the second one.
Reply:Do not let people sway your color choice. I just read an article on the new "it" wedding color schemes and that was one of them, so bravo! I can't find the website anymore, but they had pictures of centerpieces that had white and offwhite flowers and green hydrangeas. I believe there was some pink mixed in.
I love the green apples used in the post above!
Reply:Sounds like a cool color combo. I like the link provided above by Gracie M (the first one) The apples in the centerpeices is neat. Especially the more simple ones with the "fish bowl" and the apple and the rocks. You could replace the rock with brown candy (choco pieces or M%26amp;M's that are all brown with your initials on them).
Reply:I'm telling you they are not going to be thinking "oh, she's so beautiful!" They'll be thinking, "What the hell was she thinking?" You colors are overwhelming and are going to distract the importance of the event, your wedding. That green has to go.
Reply:Try Google Images. They'll have thousands of images to choose from. Just adjust what you see according to your budget.
Ummm, those colors make me think of chocolate mints!
Flooded-plants?
does-salt-water-kill-hydrangeas?two-week...
Flooded-plants?
Toni
does-salt-water-kill-hydrangea...
. . . . . the stronger (more concentrated) the salt content the better for a quicker kill. Some people just use RoundUp, but I suppose salt is the way to go to save money. However, the salt will remain in the soil for some time. Until the salt is gone, the soil will continue to kill what ever is planted there next.
Flooded-plants?
Toni
does-salt-water-kill-hydrangea...
. . . . . the stronger (more concentrated) the salt content the better for a quicker kill. Some people just use RoundUp, but I suppose salt is the way to go to save money. However, the salt will remain in the soil for some time. Until the salt is gone, the soil will continue to kill what ever is planted there next.
How far away from the house should I plant an endless summer Hydrangea?
Most hydrangea like to be in a cool spot, shaded from the direct sun. I have an entire south facing wall filled with different Hydrangea varieties. I've planted them about 18 inches from the house and they thrive there.
How far away from the house should I plant an endless summer Hydrangea?
Typically, depending on your zone, the Endless Summer variety of hydrangeas grow to be 4 or 5 feet around. So, I would say atleast 3 feet, ideally 4 or 5, especially since if you ever need to do any foundation repair work or repair siding, etc... it is going to be a huge pain in the posterior if you plant them too close to the house.
Reply:depends on how far you want to walk to get your cut flowers... if you already decided you want it close i would go with 3 or 4 feet to give it room to grow in every direction
Reply:far enough to where the snow won't damage it falling off
games hardware
How far away from the house should I plant an endless summer Hydrangea?
Typically, depending on your zone, the Endless Summer variety of hydrangeas grow to be 4 or 5 feet around. So, I would say atleast 3 feet, ideally 4 or 5, especially since if you ever need to do any foundation repair work or repair siding, etc... it is going to be a huge pain in the posterior if you plant them too close to the house.
Reply:depends on how far you want to walk to get your cut flowers... if you already decided you want it close i would go with 3 or 4 feet to give it room to grow in every direction
Reply:far enough to where the snow won't damage it falling off
games hardware
Do i need to cover my hydrangea over winter?
I live in rhode island. Do i need to cover them during the winter?
Do i need to cover my hydrangea over winter?
I'm in the mid-Atlantic U.S. and I never cover mine. I don't think it would be an issue because they die back to the ground. You might mulch the ground around them before winter sets in so as to lessen the effects of the freeze/thaw cycle on the plant.
Reply:no need to cover, but check out some sites on pruning hydrangeas. They only bloom on second year growth, so you only want to remove the canes when they are brown and dry.
Reply:Have never seen them die back to ground. As they are deciduous they are designed for winter. Some pruning can be necessary removing dead,diseased wood
Reply:I would.I know my Grandmaw would put large wire around her plants.then put straw in to fill above them.The freeze would never get her plants.She lived in Louisiana and it gets cold but not freeze....
Reply:If you are within a half mile of the ocean, probably not.
I used to live in ustate New York and never covered them, but sometimes the wind would burn them badly.
Just wrap them in burlap bags. It ain't gonna hurt.
Do i need to cover my hydrangea over winter?
I'm in the mid-Atlantic U.S. and I never cover mine. I don't think it would be an issue because they die back to the ground. You might mulch the ground around them before winter sets in so as to lessen the effects of the freeze/thaw cycle on the plant.
Reply:no need to cover, but check out some sites on pruning hydrangeas. They only bloom on second year growth, so you only want to remove the canes when they are brown and dry.
Reply:Have never seen them die back to ground. As they are deciduous they are designed for winter. Some pruning can be necessary removing dead,diseased wood
Reply:I would.I know my Grandmaw would put large wire around her plants.then put straw in to fill above them.The freeze would never get her plants.She lived in Louisiana and it gets cold but not freeze....
Reply:If you are within a half mile of the ocean, probably not.
I used to live in ustate New York and never covered them, but sometimes the wind would burn them badly.
Just wrap them in burlap bags. It ain't gonna hurt.
Once the leave fall off my Hydrangea bushes, is it OK too trim the stem at ground level?
whack em. won't hurt a thing.
Once the leave fall off my Hydrangea bushes, is it OK too trim the stem at ground level?
If you want flowers next year, don't cut down the stems to ground level; only remove dead flower heads after flowering or in March. Remove weak and damaged shoots in February or March. Thin out two or three-year-old flowered shoots to promote strong new shoots. Cut back the previous year's flowering shoots by half to strong buds.
Reply:you can but your bush won't be very big next year and you won't have as many blooms.
Reply:You can prune back the branches that had flowers those that didnt dont cut. I am not sure about triming to ground level.
Reply:do not cut anything from them they are storing food for next year when the new growth starts to grow next spring then you can cut the old growth hope this helps I have hydrangeas myself
Reply:Don't do it! the hydrangea only blooms flowers on the new growth from the year before. If you need to prune, take only long whole branches from underneath, and leave the last years branches in the center. If you cut the Hydrangea to the ground, it will not have any flowers next year.
Reply:Hydrangeas can become overgrown. The rule of thumb is to never prune away more than one third of the plant in any given year. If you are prepared to sacrifice some blooms in the coming year, go for it.
Once the leave fall off my Hydrangea bushes, is it OK too trim the stem at ground level?
If you want flowers next year, don't cut down the stems to ground level; only remove dead flower heads after flowering or in March. Remove weak and damaged shoots in February or March. Thin out two or three-year-old flowered shoots to promote strong new shoots. Cut back the previous year's flowering shoots by half to strong buds.
Reply:you can but your bush won't be very big next year and you won't have as many blooms.
Reply:You can prune back the branches that had flowers those that didnt dont cut. I am not sure about triming to ground level.
Reply:do not cut anything from them they are storing food for next year when the new growth starts to grow next spring then you can cut the old growth hope this helps I have hydrangeas myself
Reply:Don't do it! the hydrangea only blooms flowers on the new growth from the year before. If you need to prune, take only long whole branches from underneath, and leave the last years branches in the center. If you cut the Hydrangea to the ground, it will not have any flowers next year.
Reply:Hydrangeas can become overgrown. The rule of thumb is to never prune away more than one third of the plant in any given year. If you are prepared to sacrifice some blooms in the coming year, go for it.
My daughter gave me a blue hydrangea several years ago and it hasn't bloomed since I planted it outside. Why?
Every year it comes back with healthy beautiful leaves and no flowers. What am I doing wrong? Does it need acid soil?
My daughter gave me a blue hydrangea several years ago and it hasn't bloomed since I planted it outside. Why?
Many Hydrangeas bloom on last years wood. if you live in a colder climate it is dieing back to the ground and it will not bloom on the new wood that grows back this season.. You need a hydrangea suited for your climate. I have no clue why nurseries sell them and don't tell people this.
Reply:Hydrangeas prefer acidic soil and partial shade. Try fertilizing it with a product such as Miracle Grow for acidic plants (ie Hydrangeas).
Reply:It will bloom, just hold on. The color of it depends on the acidity of the soil--whether it stays blue or turns pink. I read that.
Reply:You have to prune it back hard in the autumn, mine likes acid based fertilizer and I use Epsom salt around the base for more blooms and color variation. Mine started as a gift in a container until I planted it in the ground 8 years ago. It is now huge and a prolific bloomer.
Reply:It does need acid soil, but will generally still bloom without it. It could be one of 2 problems. First, I live in a very northern area, with cool nights, as low as 40, even in summer, with a late start to the growing season (late May-early June). My hydrangeas generally don't bloom until August. So if you live in a cooler area, they may not bloom until late, or not at all. Another possibility is over pruning. Some hydrangeas, not all, only flower on old growth. If you prune all the tips every year, it may not bloom if it is that type of cultivar.
Reply:It could be the fertilizer. I am not sure but there are some plants that if they get to much nitrogen they will have beautiful foliage but no blooms.
I have a hydrangea that my daughter gave to me last year for Mother's Day. It was blue when she bought it and now it is pink.
Sometimes it even will turn purple
Reply:You really need to know what type of Hydrangea it is. Acid soil produces blue flowers and sweet soil produces pink. You can change the color of the bloom by amending the soil. This does not explain the lack of bloom. It could be that you are pruning the plant in the Fall or Spring. Many Hydrangeas will only bloom on old wood. Newer varieties, and those traditionally grown in the North, bloom on both new and old wood. Recommend you stop pruning it.
Reply:I have a hydrangea plant in my yard as well. when we first got it, it didn't bloom the first or second year after we planted it. we were dissapointed, but didn't do anything to the plant. the next year, it bloomed! I think it has to establish itself before it tries to make flowers.
My daughter gave me a blue hydrangea several years ago and it hasn't bloomed since I planted it outside. Why?
Many Hydrangeas bloom on last years wood. if you live in a colder climate it is dieing back to the ground and it will not bloom on the new wood that grows back this season.. You need a hydrangea suited for your climate. I have no clue why nurseries sell them and don't tell people this.
Reply:Hydrangeas prefer acidic soil and partial shade. Try fertilizing it with a product such as Miracle Grow for acidic plants (ie Hydrangeas).
Reply:It will bloom, just hold on. The color of it depends on the acidity of the soil--whether it stays blue or turns pink. I read that.
Reply:You have to prune it back hard in the autumn, mine likes acid based fertilizer and I use Epsom salt around the base for more blooms and color variation. Mine started as a gift in a container until I planted it in the ground 8 years ago. It is now huge and a prolific bloomer.
Reply:It does need acid soil, but will generally still bloom without it. It could be one of 2 problems. First, I live in a very northern area, with cool nights, as low as 40, even in summer, with a late start to the growing season (late May-early June). My hydrangeas generally don't bloom until August. So if you live in a cooler area, they may not bloom until late, or not at all. Another possibility is over pruning. Some hydrangeas, not all, only flower on old growth. If you prune all the tips every year, it may not bloom if it is that type of cultivar.
Reply:It could be the fertilizer. I am not sure but there are some plants that if they get to much nitrogen they will have beautiful foliage but no blooms.
I have a hydrangea that my daughter gave to me last year for Mother's Day. It was blue when she bought it and now it is pink.
Sometimes it even will turn purple
Reply:You really need to know what type of Hydrangea it is. Acid soil produces blue flowers and sweet soil produces pink. You can change the color of the bloom by amending the soil. This does not explain the lack of bloom. It could be that you are pruning the plant in the Fall or Spring. Many Hydrangeas will only bloom on old wood. Newer varieties, and those traditionally grown in the North, bloom on both new and old wood. Recommend you stop pruning it.
Reply:I have a hydrangea plant in my yard as well. when we first got it, it didn't bloom the first or second year after we planted it. we were dissapointed, but didn't do anything to the plant. the next year, it bloomed! I think it has to establish itself before it tries to make flowers.
Any helpful hints on caring for Hydrangea's? I've never grown them before.?
the big thing is don't prune in the spring, The plant blooms on the wood from last year. There are some varieties that bloom on new wood but most on the old. they need fertilization in the spring and like lots of water. if you want a blue flower you can get a chemical from the nursery that will turn the flower blue this works only on plants that have some blue in them to begin with, you can't turn a white flower blue.
Any helpful hints on caring for Hydrangea's? I've never grown them before.?
You don't tell us where you live--
I found a site while looking for another flower-- so if you try this site you will find a section on hydrangea. So google knockout rose....
good luck
Reply:They like a shady spot.
gert
Any helpful hints on caring for Hydrangea's? I've never grown them before.?
You don't tell us where you live--
I found a site while looking for another flower-- so if you try this site you will find a section on hydrangea. So google knockout rose....
good luck
Reply:They like a shady spot.
gert
When is the time to plant hydrangea? it is now october?
Fall (or Autumn) is the best time of the year to plant. You have a cool moist season, followed by a dormant season, followed by another cool moist season. This combo. gives the plant ideal growing conditions to establish it's roots.
In certain USDA hardiness zones, some Hydrangea (Hydrangea macrophylla) might be sensitive to fall planting. But with additional protection, it should make it. As long as the plant is completely hardy in your zone, it should require no special considerations if planted in the mild part of October.
If you planting in later October or November, I would recommend wood mulch. (Straw is okay, but Hay isn't. It is full of seeds, and you'll grow alot of weeds if you use Hay.)
I hope that this helps
Good luck-
When is the time to plant hydrangea? it is now october?
Plant Hydrangeas in October and November or March and April.They like moisture-retentive soil and a sheltered location. If you want blue flowers incorporate in the planting hole some peat moss. Acid soil gives blue and alkaline soil pink flowers.Mulch in April with well-decayed manure.
Reply:The fall is the best time to plant anything is the ground,m make sure you put an insulator around it, i.e. hay or mulch..
good luck
Reply:as above but i prefere to say autumn!!! however a potted version can be planted in spring. BE AWARE OF FORCED PLANTS if you see a plant in flower out of season DO NOT PLANT IT for 3 months (it will not cope with it) have fun....
In certain USDA hardiness zones, some Hydrangea (Hydrangea macrophylla) might be sensitive to fall planting. But with additional protection, it should make it. As long as the plant is completely hardy in your zone, it should require no special considerations if planted in the mild part of October.
If you planting in later October or November, I would recommend wood mulch. (Straw is okay, but Hay isn't. It is full of seeds, and you'll grow alot of weeds if you use Hay.)
I hope that this helps
Good luck-
When is the time to plant hydrangea? it is now october?
Plant Hydrangeas in October and November or March and April.They like moisture-retentive soil and a sheltered location. If you want blue flowers incorporate in the planting hole some peat moss. Acid soil gives blue and alkaline soil pink flowers.Mulch in April with well-decayed manure.
Reply:The fall is the best time to plant anything is the ground,m make sure you put an insulator around it, i.e. hay or mulch..
good luck
Reply:as above but i prefere to say autumn!!! however a potted version can be planted in spring. BE AWARE OF FORCED PLANTS if you see a plant in flower out of season DO NOT PLANT IT for 3 months (it will not cope with it) have fun....
What do I do with my hydrangea bush in fall?
in the summer it falls down and drops from big flowers
What do I do with my hydrangea bush in fall?
You will need to go to a gardening/hydrangea web site to find out which type you have.Many only bloom on old wood so you shouldn't cut them back.If you live in the part of the country where it snows leave blooms on over the winter for winter interest otherwise you can cut the old blooms off.Martha Stewart had a good article on hydrangeas last month. It was in her magazine.My Mom has a huge lovely bush.The blooms start off greenish than turn to white.I just cut off the dead blooms every early spring.I don't cut the limbs just the blooms.I hope I helped somewhat?
Reply:This is an excellent question -- I have the same problem! Will watch for your answers........
Reply:Go ahead and give it a trim. My hydrangeas always do
better the next year if I prune in the fall. You can bring the
flower heads in the house for an arrangement which will
last all winter. This is one plant that is worth it's weight in
gold. If you don't trim it the winter will. It is better to give it
the shape you want it to have.
Reply:This fall, you can try to tying the individual branches up to stakes. But next spring, go to any garden center and purchase a peony ring. It is a wire grate with large openings for the stems to go through and three legs to hold it off the ground. Place it over the bare stems and as the plant grows, it will grow through the grate, which will support its weight later.
I don't know how big your plant is--a standard ring may be too small. If it is, you can get the idea anyway and fashion something yourself along the same lines.
Reply:cut it back to about 12-18 inches from the ground. You will find that next year your bush will be bigger and more full of blossems.
What do I do with my hydrangea bush in fall?
You will need to go to a gardening/hydrangea web site to find out which type you have.Many only bloom on old wood so you shouldn't cut them back.If you live in the part of the country where it snows leave blooms on over the winter for winter interest otherwise you can cut the old blooms off.Martha Stewart had a good article on hydrangeas last month. It was in her magazine.My Mom has a huge lovely bush.The blooms start off greenish than turn to white.I just cut off the dead blooms every early spring.I don't cut the limbs just the blooms.I hope I helped somewhat?
Reply:This is an excellent question -- I have the same problem! Will watch for your answers........
Reply:Go ahead and give it a trim. My hydrangeas always do
better the next year if I prune in the fall. You can bring the
flower heads in the house for an arrangement which will
last all winter. This is one plant that is worth it's weight in
gold. If you don't trim it the winter will. It is better to give it
the shape you want it to have.
Reply:This fall, you can try to tying the individual branches up to stakes. But next spring, go to any garden center and purchase a peony ring. It is a wire grate with large openings for the stems to go through and three legs to hold it off the ground. Place it over the bare stems and as the plant grows, it will grow through the grate, which will support its weight later.
I don't know how big your plant is--a standard ring may be too small. If it is, you can get the idea anyway and fashion something yourself along the same lines.
Reply:cut it back to about 12-18 inches from the ground. You will find that next year your bush will be bigger and more full of blossems.
Why can't i get my Hydrangea's to bloom???
I live in Orange County CA, and they get 1/2 day of sun. The leaves grow, and it starts to bloom, but then they just die.
Why can't i get my Hydrangea's to bloom???
Didn't you say that you have blooms but that they die? If that is true, then focusing on what prevents hydrangeas from blooming will not solve your problem as suggested by the previous 2 posts. We must instead look to probable causes of bloom blight or damage. Here are some reasonable possibilities:
BACTERIA BLIGHT
Bacterial wilt can blight (they just die) flower clusters. Leaves may be affected as well. This disease is worse after heavy rains and hot weather. If severe, wilting and root rot can occur, followed by plant death. The causal organism is Pseudomonas solanacearum, and no chemical control is available.
BOTRYIS
Botrytis (grey mold) also affects blooms, but this disease generally produces a grey mold, thus its common name. In fact, Botrytis on hydrangea is usually limited to the ?ower buds and especially the petals. The small water-soaked spots seen on the petals quickly expand into reddish brown irregular blotches. Brightly colored petals quickly fade to a brown, withered mass that can be covered with a fuzzy
grey growth. Botrytis blight could be the source of your frustration.
Fungicides will protect hydrangea from Botrytis blight only if used in combination with good management practices. Start treatments when the plant is beginning to bloom and continue until ?nished. Fungicides: Chipco GT, Dithane, Fore, Protect, or Halt.
Remove infected plant material %26amp; dispose. Remove plant litter. Do not overhead water. Clean pruning tools with 10% bleach or 75% alcohol solution between cuts.
THRIPS
Another possibility is the western flower thrip. These sap sucking insects can be in your hydrangea buds, damaging the blooms before they deploy. Thrips are difficult to control because they are in the flower buds.
Colorado State University Extension Service:
-Dislodge them by applying a strong stream of water to the affected plant. Larvae are wingless and will not find their way back to your plant. This is one time you will want to use overhead watering as it kills many of the thrips.
-Placing aluminum foil mulches under the plants has been found in some instances to disorient the thrips.
-Remove and discard affected blossoms and plant parts.
-Thrips prefer tender new growth. Avoid excess pruning which may stimulate new growth or applying high nitrogen fertilizers.
-Avoid planting near dry, weed or grassy areas. Thrips migrate from these areas into the garden.
-The location of the insects makes it difficult to reach them with insecticides. Products that have been somewhat successful are: horticultural oils, insecticidal soaps, Neem, pyrethroids, acephate (non-food crops only), Nicotine, Orthene and Trumpet.
Two biological controls have shown promise in Colorado. They are Beauvaria bassiana (Naruralis O, Botanigard) and Spinosad.
The MSU Dept. of Horticulture also has identified Spinosad as a low toxic %26amp; effective biological control of thrips. The product name is Conserve SC. "Conserve SC has a "moderate" spectrum of activity. It is most effective on chewing insects including beetles (particularly Chrysomelidae), caterpillars and sawfly larvae. Leafmining flies, fungus gnat and shore fly larvae are also potential target pests. It appears to have good activity on thrips and sporadic activity against mite species.
Hydrangeas are tolerant of a very wide pH range (4.5 - 8.0). Aluminum dissolves and is available as a micronutrient between a pH of 5.2 to 5.8. Aluminum has been identified as the micronutrient repsonsible for turning blooms blue on a Mop Head hydrangea. Aluminum is not responsible for the retention of hydrangea blooms. At a pH level of 5.0, availability of the macro-nutrients Nitrogen, Phosphorus, Potassium, Sulfur, Calcium, %26amp; Magnesium are significantly restricted and become a bigger issue for the plant's health than the availability of aluminum.
Reply:Your soil may have the wrong pH for the flower to take up enough aluminum to keep the bloom going. The pH should be about 5.0
Reply:Hi ~
Don't prune unless necessary. Pruning often removes the flower buds. If you need to prune, remove any dead stems in the spring. Any other necessary pruning should take place immediately after bloom. The new flower buds form in autumn, when night temperatures consistently drop below 60 degrees.
Cover the plants to a depth of at least 12-18 inches with mulch, bark, oak leaves, pine needles, or straw. Cover the entire plant, tips included, if possible. Remember not to use maple leaves because they will mat when wet and can suffocate the plant. Some people make cages out of snow fence or chicken wire to hold the mulch. One creative gentleman, who every year has a spectacular Hydrangea garden, uses 20 gallon plastic trash cans. He cuts off the bottoms, places them over his plants in early winter, fills them with mulch and then puts the lid on them until spring.
Remove the mulch only after any major threat of frost (50% frost-free date) has passed. Do not be concerned if there are small white leaves and stems they will survive and turn green again quickly.
Reply:Most plants that don't bloom can trace their problems to several sources: not enough light, deer damage, pruning at the wrong time, bud drop from extreme changes in temperature, or lack of proper nutrients. If your hydrangea bloomed regularly but stops blooming, look for changes in the growing conditions — denser shade, less wind protection, or perhaps unusually harsh weather.
Some varieties don't bloom year after year. The Mophead (rounded) varieties are notorious for not blooming year after year.
There may be a general lack of Phosphorous in the soil, %26amp; too much Nitrogen may have caused a lot of leafy growth at the expense of blooms.
Or...sometimes hydrangea will leaf out early in the spring during a warm spell and then get caught in a late spring freeze. If the new growth came only from the ground, then types of hydrange that blooms only on old wood will not bloom this year.
The smooth hydrangea (Hydrangea arborescens), bloom on new wood so if you prune in late winter or early spring, you won't accidentally cut off this year's flowers. Others, like some mopheads and many big-leaf hydrangeas (H. macrophylla) bloom on old wood, so any late-season (or fall or winter) pruning you do erases next year's flowers.
You can prune a third of the stems of mophead hydrangeas (H. macrophylla) to the ground after blooming and cut off flower heads when they become tattered. But do not prune the flowerless straight shoots without side branches because these are the ones that will branch out and flower next year.
They are heavy feeders. To encourage flowering, use a fertilizer low in Nitrogen and with a Phosphorus content over 30. (An N-P-K ratio of 10-40-10 is ideal) %26amp; fertilize them regularly. Organic soil enriched with compost is best. If using store-bought fertilizers %26amp; you don't want to fuss with a scheduled feeding of fertilizer, you can also use a slow-release fertilizer like osmacote or use manure around your plants. Water on a regular basis.
Usually too much shade will also retard the development of flowers, %26amp; full sun can scorch the leaves so part sun to shade is best, but you seem to have enough sun. Morning sun and afternoon shade is ideal. Are your Hydrangeas planted planted in an area away from drying winter winds?
Here's a site on How to prune Hydrangea:
http://www.hydrangeashydrangeas.com/prun...
Good luck! Hope this helped.
Why can't i get my Hydrangea's to bloom???
Didn't you say that you have blooms but that they die? If that is true, then focusing on what prevents hydrangeas from blooming will not solve your problem as suggested by the previous 2 posts. We must instead look to probable causes of bloom blight or damage. Here are some reasonable possibilities:
BACTERIA BLIGHT
Bacterial wilt can blight (they just die) flower clusters. Leaves may be affected as well. This disease is worse after heavy rains and hot weather. If severe, wilting and root rot can occur, followed by plant death. The causal organism is Pseudomonas solanacearum, and no chemical control is available.
BOTRYIS
Botrytis (grey mold) also affects blooms, but this disease generally produces a grey mold, thus its common name. In fact, Botrytis on hydrangea is usually limited to the ?ower buds and especially the petals. The small water-soaked spots seen on the petals quickly expand into reddish brown irregular blotches. Brightly colored petals quickly fade to a brown, withered mass that can be covered with a fuzzy
grey growth. Botrytis blight could be the source of your frustration.
Fungicides will protect hydrangea from Botrytis blight only if used in combination with good management practices. Start treatments when the plant is beginning to bloom and continue until ?nished. Fungicides: Chipco GT, Dithane, Fore, Protect, or Halt.
Remove infected plant material %26amp; dispose. Remove plant litter. Do not overhead water. Clean pruning tools with 10% bleach or 75% alcohol solution between cuts.
THRIPS
Another possibility is the western flower thrip. These sap sucking insects can be in your hydrangea buds, damaging the blooms before they deploy. Thrips are difficult to control because they are in the flower buds.
Colorado State University Extension Service:
-Dislodge them by applying a strong stream of water to the affected plant. Larvae are wingless and will not find their way back to your plant. This is one time you will want to use overhead watering as it kills many of the thrips.
-Placing aluminum foil mulches under the plants has been found in some instances to disorient the thrips.
-Remove and discard affected blossoms and plant parts.
-Thrips prefer tender new growth. Avoid excess pruning which may stimulate new growth or applying high nitrogen fertilizers.
-Avoid planting near dry, weed or grassy areas. Thrips migrate from these areas into the garden.
-The location of the insects makes it difficult to reach them with insecticides. Products that have been somewhat successful are: horticultural oils, insecticidal soaps, Neem, pyrethroids, acephate (non-food crops only), Nicotine, Orthene and Trumpet.
Two biological controls have shown promise in Colorado. They are Beauvaria bassiana (Naruralis O, Botanigard) and Spinosad.
The MSU Dept. of Horticulture also has identified Spinosad as a low toxic %26amp; effective biological control of thrips. The product name is Conserve SC. "Conserve SC has a "moderate" spectrum of activity. It is most effective on chewing insects including beetles (particularly Chrysomelidae), caterpillars and sawfly larvae. Leafmining flies, fungus gnat and shore fly larvae are also potential target pests. It appears to have good activity on thrips and sporadic activity against mite species.
Hydrangeas are tolerant of a very wide pH range (4.5 - 8.0). Aluminum dissolves and is available as a micronutrient between a pH of 5.2 to 5.8. Aluminum has been identified as the micronutrient repsonsible for turning blooms blue on a Mop Head hydrangea. Aluminum is not responsible for the retention of hydrangea blooms. At a pH level of 5.0, availability of the macro-nutrients Nitrogen, Phosphorus, Potassium, Sulfur, Calcium, %26amp; Magnesium are significantly restricted and become a bigger issue for the plant's health than the availability of aluminum.
Reply:Your soil may have the wrong pH for the flower to take up enough aluminum to keep the bloom going. The pH should be about 5.0
Reply:Hi ~
Don't prune unless necessary. Pruning often removes the flower buds. If you need to prune, remove any dead stems in the spring. Any other necessary pruning should take place immediately after bloom. The new flower buds form in autumn, when night temperatures consistently drop below 60 degrees.
Cover the plants to a depth of at least 12-18 inches with mulch, bark, oak leaves, pine needles, or straw. Cover the entire plant, tips included, if possible. Remember not to use maple leaves because they will mat when wet and can suffocate the plant. Some people make cages out of snow fence or chicken wire to hold the mulch. One creative gentleman, who every year has a spectacular Hydrangea garden, uses 20 gallon plastic trash cans. He cuts off the bottoms, places them over his plants in early winter, fills them with mulch and then puts the lid on them until spring.
Remove the mulch only after any major threat of frost (50% frost-free date) has passed. Do not be concerned if there are small white leaves and stems they will survive and turn green again quickly.
Reply:Most plants that don't bloom can trace their problems to several sources: not enough light, deer damage, pruning at the wrong time, bud drop from extreme changes in temperature, or lack of proper nutrients. If your hydrangea bloomed regularly but stops blooming, look for changes in the growing conditions — denser shade, less wind protection, or perhaps unusually harsh weather.
Some varieties don't bloom year after year. The Mophead (rounded) varieties are notorious for not blooming year after year.
There may be a general lack of Phosphorous in the soil, %26amp; too much Nitrogen may have caused a lot of leafy growth at the expense of blooms.
Or...sometimes hydrangea will leaf out early in the spring during a warm spell and then get caught in a late spring freeze. If the new growth came only from the ground, then types of hydrange that blooms only on old wood will not bloom this year.
The smooth hydrangea (Hydrangea arborescens), bloom on new wood so if you prune in late winter or early spring, you won't accidentally cut off this year's flowers. Others, like some mopheads and many big-leaf hydrangeas (H. macrophylla) bloom on old wood, so any late-season (or fall or winter) pruning you do erases next year's flowers.
You can prune a third of the stems of mophead hydrangeas (H. macrophylla) to the ground after blooming and cut off flower heads when they become tattered. But do not prune the flowerless straight shoots without side branches because these are the ones that will branch out and flower next year.
They are heavy feeders. To encourage flowering, use a fertilizer low in Nitrogen and with a Phosphorus content over 30. (An N-P-K ratio of 10-40-10 is ideal) %26amp; fertilize them regularly. Organic soil enriched with compost is best. If using store-bought fertilizers %26amp; you don't want to fuss with a scheduled feeding of fertilizer, you can also use a slow-release fertilizer like osmacote or use manure around your plants. Water on a regular basis.
Usually too much shade will also retard the development of flowers, %26amp; full sun can scorch the leaves so part sun to shade is best, but you seem to have enough sun. Morning sun and afternoon shade is ideal. Are your Hydrangeas planted planted in an area away from drying winter winds?
Here's a site on How to prune Hydrangea:
http://www.hydrangeashydrangeas.com/prun...
Good luck! Hope this helped.
I want to change a blue hydrangea to pink. Can it be done? And How? Thanks?
It can be done, the color of the flower is a matter of soil acidity. If you want it to be more blue, give it aluminum sulfate. If you want it to be pink, sweeten the soil with a side-dressing of lime in the spring, but it is much harder to go to pink from blue than the other way around. There are some really pretty pink hydrangeas on the market, perhaps it would be easier to just plant one of them. Here's a web site with more info:
http://www.hydrangeashydrangeas.com/colo...
http://www.hydrangeashydrangeas.com/colo...
When do you cut back a hydrangea bush in Indiana?
What do you do in the fall before freezing
When do you cut back a hydrangea bush in Indiana?
Thank you for identifying where you're at, that really helps us to answer your question.
The problem is why do you want to cut back your Hydrangea? not all forms need to or should be cut back. We need to find out what sort of Hydrangea you have. The one I think you have is smooth hydrangea (Hydrangea arborescens). This one has a large white flower in mid-late summer, that dry, the shrubs could be as tall as 5' or so. If you want to keep it smaller, you can cut them back this time of year (I'd really wait until it's lost it's leafs).
The remaining forms, vary a bit, none of which I'd just cut back. The ones I'd avoid pruning in the fall are Large-leaf hydrangea (Hydrangea macrophylla) and oak leafed hydrangea (H. quercifolia).
If you need some additional info. add it to your question, and I'll try to revisit it.
Good luck-
I hope that this helps
****
I'm sure yours is one of the Macrophylla kinds, or at lease allied to it. I would not cut it back. These kinds of hydrangea bloom off of old wood, not newer wood (there are a few exceptions that have been introduced recently, there's no way of knowing if you have one of those or not). Once the leaves have browned and fallen off (this could happen quite late, like after Thanksgiving), tie the branches together, near the tips. Layer 3-6" of mulch around the base of the plant (you'll remove the mulch in the spring). Once you see new growth in the spring, cut back the dead. You should have flowers then. Fertilize with a flowering shrub fertilizer. Coffee will help make the soil more acidic, which in turn will make the flowers more blue.
Reply:Hydrangea are very easy to grow and they come back year after year even after severe pruning. See attached website for pruning advice.
Reply:use the website that the lady above gave you and find out WHAT KIND of hydrangea you have, because the pruning times and ways are different for different kinds!!!!... if you prune the wrong one at the wrong time, you'll get no flowers!!....
When do you cut back a hydrangea bush in Indiana?
Thank you for identifying where you're at, that really helps us to answer your question.
The problem is why do you want to cut back your Hydrangea? not all forms need to or should be cut back. We need to find out what sort of Hydrangea you have. The one I think you have is smooth hydrangea (Hydrangea arborescens). This one has a large white flower in mid-late summer, that dry, the shrubs could be as tall as 5' or so. If you want to keep it smaller, you can cut them back this time of year (I'd really wait until it's lost it's leafs).
The remaining forms, vary a bit, none of which I'd just cut back. The ones I'd avoid pruning in the fall are Large-leaf hydrangea (Hydrangea macrophylla) and oak leafed hydrangea (H. quercifolia).
If you need some additional info. add it to your question, and I'll try to revisit it.
Good luck-
I hope that this helps
****
I'm sure yours is one of the Macrophylla kinds, or at lease allied to it. I would not cut it back. These kinds of hydrangea bloom off of old wood, not newer wood (there are a few exceptions that have been introduced recently, there's no way of knowing if you have one of those or not). Once the leaves have browned and fallen off (this could happen quite late, like after Thanksgiving), tie the branches together, near the tips. Layer 3-6" of mulch around the base of the plant (you'll remove the mulch in the spring). Once you see new growth in the spring, cut back the dead. You should have flowers then. Fertilize with a flowering shrub fertilizer. Coffee will help make the soil more acidic, which in turn will make the flowers more blue.
Reply:Hydrangea are very easy to grow and they come back year after year even after severe pruning. See attached website for pruning advice.
Reply:use the website that the lady above gave you and find out WHAT KIND of hydrangea you have, because the pruning times and ways are different for different kinds!!!!... if you prune the wrong one at the wrong time, you'll get no flowers!!....
What can anyone tell me about Hydrangea, Gravel Root and Marshmallow?
I was diagnosed with a kidney stone. This is miserable. I am taking Vicodin now for pain, drinking a gallon of water and hoping this passes. In talking to a naturopath the above were suggested. Can anyone tell me if the above truley works? I'd like relief. Next stop is Lithotripsy which frankly scares the hell out of me.
Thanks a head of time.
Oh and one more thing. I take atentolol and flecainade for Afib, my other concern will these herbs conflict with the meds I am taking. I have calls into my cardiologist as I type.
What can anyone tell me about Hydrangea, Gravel Root and Marshmallow?
http://www.viable-herbal.com/singles/her...
http://www.viable-herbal.com/singles/her...
http://www.health-care-information.org/a...
HOPE THIS HELPS
Thanks a head of time.
Oh and one more thing. I take atentolol and flecainade for Afib, my other concern will these herbs conflict with the meds I am taking. I have calls into my cardiologist as I type.
What can anyone tell me about Hydrangea, Gravel Root and Marshmallow?
http://www.viable-herbal.com/singles/her...
http://www.viable-herbal.com/singles/her...
http://www.health-care-information.org/a...
HOPE THIS HELPS
How do I get my lace hydrangea to flower?
It flowered some when I bought it 10 years ago. I then planted it where it got quite a bit of sun; it got huge in size and it's leaves were beautiful but didn't flower. I split it in two last summer and relocated one to a site that gets morning sunlight and the other gets sunlight through midday but neither are flowering. A garden store told me to apply super phosphate and it would force it to flower; I did but it still hasn't flowered. Both plants are thriving in their new locations but they are flowerless.
How do I get my lace hydrangea to flower?
Some varieties don't bloom year after year. The Mophead (rounded) varieties are notorious for not blooming year after year.
Also, a lack of blooms could be due to pruning at the wrong time.
Or...sometimes hydrangea will leaf out early in the spring during a warm spell and then get caught in a late spring freeze. If the new growth came only from the ground, then types of hydrange that blooms only on old wood will not bloom this year. In frost zones, winter protection %26amp; planting in an area away from drying winter winds helps.
The smooth hydrangea (Hydrangea arborescens), bloom on new wood. Others, like some mopheads and many big-leaf hydrangeas (H. macrophylla) bloom on old wood, so any late-season (or fall or winter) pruning you do erases next year's flowers. The safest time to prune is right after flowering. Cut the spent blooms to the ground; then prune out any old, dead or weak shoots.
That advice about phosphate encouraging flowering is correct. It's ideal to use a fertilizer low in Nitrogen and with a Phosphorus content over 30. (An N-P-K ratio of 10-40-10 is ideal) %26amp; fertilize them regularly. Organic soil enriched with compost is best. If you're using store-bought fertilizers %26amp; you don't want to fuss with a scheduled feeding of fertilizer, you can also use a slow-release fertilizer like osmacote or use manure around your plants. Water on a consistent basis. Morning sun and afternoon shade is ideal. Too much shade will retard the development of flowers. Full sun can scorch the leaves so part sun to shade is best.
Here's the "official" care instructions for your lace cap hydrangea:
http://www.robertsonsflowers.com/Ask_the...
"Lace caps need a bit more sun than most Hydrangeas. Cut off old blooms when the blooms are faded. Don't cut the old wood however. Most Hydrangeas bloom on old wood from the previous year. Don't over fertilize. Use a time release plant food like Osmocote granular type. Just give it the right sun exposure, no hot noon summer sun they are best in morning and late afternoon sun. That is why the plant tags usually say "partial shade". Plant outside after May 15th (frost date) and it will come back every year."
Here's a forum discussing why Hydrangeas weren't blooming:
http://forums.gardenweb.com/forums/load/...
Good luck! Hope this helps.
Reply:some variety hydrangea only bloom on new wood (growth from this season) %26amp; other vareities only bloom on old wood (last years growth)
Are you pruning it? If so, then I guess you have the kind that only bloom on old wood, let it grow. If you've never pruned it, next spring wait for the growth to start then give it a good pruning to encourage a lot of growth.
Definetly keep up with the fertilizing, they like acid soil so use a fert. for Acid Loving Plants, like Mir-Acid, or Holly-tone
Reply:I had a similar problem with my hydrangeas....they didn't flower at all after moving for a year. Thankfully though they did the following year and have ever since. Some hydrangeas prefer a light sun/part shade and acidic soil. I have one in the shade and two in the sun and they're doing great now with lots of blooms. Pruning them could be the cause, or too cold of a climate or if they're planted in heavy shade and also bad dry spells will cause the hydrangeas not to blooom and they should be watered everyday......twice in really hot weather. Osmocote or any 10-10-10 fertilizer is also good for them. Good luck!
Reply:YOu should check the soil. If not cut the bush real y short and it will flower amazingly well in 2 years. Do it in Cycles
Reply:If you don't have alot of natural iron in you soil you will need give it iron suppliments.
Do you fertilize the bed every month? I would try that...go to a nursery and buy the good stuff..not HOME Depot or LOWES..nothing against then but you need a nursery to help you pick what is right for your area soil.
If all else fails and you need a quick fix. Peters 20/20 or Miracle Grow once a week ..but note they are high in salt and should not be your only fertilizer.
addis
How do I get my lace hydrangea to flower?
Some varieties don't bloom year after year. The Mophead (rounded) varieties are notorious for not blooming year after year.
Also, a lack of blooms could be due to pruning at the wrong time.
Or...sometimes hydrangea will leaf out early in the spring during a warm spell and then get caught in a late spring freeze. If the new growth came only from the ground, then types of hydrange that blooms only on old wood will not bloom this year. In frost zones, winter protection %26amp; planting in an area away from drying winter winds helps.
The smooth hydrangea (Hydrangea arborescens), bloom on new wood. Others, like some mopheads and many big-leaf hydrangeas (H. macrophylla) bloom on old wood, so any late-season (or fall or winter) pruning you do erases next year's flowers. The safest time to prune is right after flowering. Cut the spent blooms to the ground; then prune out any old, dead or weak shoots.
That advice about phosphate encouraging flowering is correct. It's ideal to use a fertilizer low in Nitrogen and with a Phosphorus content over 30. (An N-P-K ratio of 10-40-10 is ideal) %26amp; fertilize them regularly. Organic soil enriched with compost is best. If you're using store-bought fertilizers %26amp; you don't want to fuss with a scheduled feeding of fertilizer, you can also use a slow-release fertilizer like osmacote or use manure around your plants. Water on a consistent basis. Morning sun and afternoon shade is ideal. Too much shade will retard the development of flowers. Full sun can scorch the leaves so part sun to shade is best.
Here's the "official" care instructions for your lace cap hydrangea:
http://www.robertsonsflowers.com/Ask_the...
"Lace caps need a bit more sun than most Hydrangeas. Cut off old blooms when the blooms are faded. Don't cut the old wood however. Most Hydrangeas bloom on old wood from the previous year. Don't over fertilize. Use a time release plant food like Osmocote granular type. Just give it the right sun exposure, no hot noon summer sun they are best in morning and late afternoon sun. That is why the plant tags usually say "partial shade". Plant outside after May 15th (frost date) and it will come back every year."
Here's a forum discussing why Hydrangeas weren't blooming:
http://forums.gardenweb.com/forums/load/...
Good luck! Hope this helps.
Reply:some variety hydrangea only bloom on new wood (growth from this season) %26amp; other vareities only bloom on old wood (last years growth)
Are you pruning it? If so, then I guess you have the kind that only bloom on old wood, let it grow. If you've never pruned it, next spring wait for the growth to start then give it a good pruning to encourage a lot of growth.
Definetly keep up with the fertilizing, they like acid soil so use a fert. for Acid Loving Plants, like Mir-Acid, or Holly-tone
Reply:I had a similar problem with my hydrangeas....they didn't flower at all after moving for a year. Thankfully though they did the following year and have ever since. Some hydrangeas prefer a light sun/part shade and acidic soil. I have one in the shade and two in the sun and they're doing great now with lots of blooms. Pruning them could be the cause, or too cold of a climate or if they're planted in heavy shade and also bad dry spells will cause the hydrangeas not to blooom and they should be watered everyday......twice in really hot weather. Osmocote or any 10-10-10 fertilizer is also good for them. Good luck!
Reply:YOu should check the soil. If not cut the bush real y short and it will flower amazingly well in 2 years. Do it in Cycles
Reply:If you don't have alot of natural iron in you soil you will need give it iron suppliments.
Do you fertilize the bed every month? I would try that...go to a nursery and buy the good stuff..not HOME Depot or LOWES..nothing against then but you need a nursery to help you pick what is right for your area soil.
If all else fails and you need a quick fix. Peters 20/20 or Miracle Grow once a week ..but note they are high in salt and should not be your only fertilizer.
addis
Do the names hyacinth, dogwood and hydrangea signify a special code for you?
Werent those names of british special forces opperations in ww2?
I recall one called Tulip I think, it was an opperation against Rommel or one of the other high ranking officers.
They sound very familiar
Do the names hyacinth, dogwood and hydrangea signify a special code for you?
yea-allergy season.
Reply:only flowers
Reply:yes, the Code of the Ninja.
I recall one called Tulip I think, it was an opperation against Rommel or one of the other high ranking officers.
They sound very familiar
Do the names hyacinth, dogwood and hydrangea signify a special code for you?
yea-allergy season.
Reply:only flowers
Reply:yes, the Code of the Ninja.
Do gerbera daisies or even regular daisies smell good? What about hydrangea?
To each his own but I don't think daisies smell good. I really don't remember hydrangeas having a strong smell either way. If you want good smells choose roses, pansies, Hyacinth or any herbal plant like mints.
Do gerbera daisies or even regular daisies smell good? What about hydrangea?
daisies can be anything from completely odourless to quite foul smelling
Reply:For daisy-like flowers with a nice scent....try one of the new Echinaceas....like the 'Big Sky' Series.....I grew 'Sunset', ...amazing fragrance. Kind of pricy...but worth it. Hydrangeas have no scent, to my knowledge. A lovely low-growing shrub with an amazing fragrance is Daphne 'Carol Mackie'. Beautiful varigeated folaige, looks great even when not in bloom. If you could use a taller shrub, try Viburnum carlesii, it's spicy and powerful.
Do gerbera daisies or even regular daisies smell good? What about hydrangea?
daisies can be anything from completely odourless to quite foul smelling
Reply:For daisy-like flowers with a nice scent....try one of the new Echinaceas....like the 'Big Sky' Series.....I grew 'Sunset', ...amazing fragrance. Kind of pricy...but worth it. Hydrangeas have no scent, to my knowledge. A lovely low-growing shrub with an amazing fragrance is Daphne 'Carol Mackie'. Beautiful varigeated folaige, looks great even when not in bloom. If you could use a taller shrub, try Viburnum carlesii, it's spicy and powerful.
How do I get a hydrangea to root from a cutting?
I tried the rooting mix at the store and it didn't work! Help
How do I get a hydrangea to root from a cutting?
What I do is bend a fresh-growth (flexible) stalk down in the soil and mound soil on top of it, allowing the growth end of the stalk to stick out. After a while (I give it a couple months or even a winter and spring), it will root and you can dig it up and replant it. I have done this successfully with no failures.
Reply:I am trying it right now. I just cut and planted mine yesterday. I am using growth hormone powder on soft tip cutting. Stuck it in sand %26amp; misting it. We will see what happens. Good luck!
How do I get a hydrangea to root from a cutting?
What I do is bend a fresh-growth (flexible) stalk down in the soil and mound soil on top of it, allowing the growth end of the stalk to stick out. After a while (I give it a couple months or even a winter and spring), it will root and you can dig it up and replant it. I have done this successfully with no failures.
Reply:I am trying it right now. I just cut and planted mine yesterday. I am using growth hormone powder on soft tip cutting. Stuck it in sand %26amp; misting it. We will see what happens. Good luck!
Why is my newly planted hydrangea wilting and turning yellow?
It's getting plenty of sun (NW corner of my house), and has been watered in well.
Why is my newly planted hydrangea wilting and turning yellow?
You don't tell us what kind of Hydrangea you planted. An Annabelle (Hydrangea arborescens) or Big Leafed (Hydrangea macrophylla) type do not do well in western exposures. The hot afternoon sun stresses and wilts these plants. They will need plenty of moisture in this exposure or some protection from the hot afternoon sun.
Leaves can wilt and turn yellow because of lack of water or too much water. There is no way to know which it is other than to know more details on your watering practices. Hydrangeas like moist soils, not wet soils. The ground should not be muddy or have standing water at the base of your hydrangeas. Maybe you've been watering too much?
Is it just a few leaves? Are all the leaves on the same branches? If you have broken a few branches during transplanting, the leaves will wilt and turn yellow.
I've used the root stimulants and have found them to mostly be a waste of money.
Reply:Hydrangeas are pretty needy for fertilizer and water. They do best in morning sun and afternoon shade. When you plant anything, first yu need to loosen up the roots, this helps the root system start growing into the soil quicker, therefore you don't need chemical root stimulators, if it is really root bound you can cut an X at the bottom of the plants roots. Give the plant a little more time to get established, if the leaves are yellow remove them, new ones will replace them, as for wilting, Hydrangea's do this in the hot sun and it's theie way of protecting themselves from the heat of the sun, that is why when you water you plant make sure the water reaches the roots, do not surface water any plant, when you do this the roots start growing toward the surface of the ground, instead of the bottom of the ground. If you haven't had the plant in the ground very long you may want to dig it up and loosen the roots and plant with alittle time-release fertilizer mixed into the whole. Happy Growing!!!!!!!!!!!
Reply:Fertilome makes a product; Root Stimulator. It's shocked, stim it.
Reply:its in shock
you know they have special soil needs???
Reply:Some hydranga leaves are shaped like that especially the modern ones yes in the modern ones the leaves are curled but it will probaly be turning yellow because of the soil is wrong take a pH of the soil check on the net or in gardening books to see what the pH of the soil should be for a Hydranga.
larry
Why is my newly planted hydrangea wilting and turning yellow?
You don't tell us what kind of Hydrangea you planted. An Annabelle (Hydrangea arborescens) or Big Leafed (Hydrangea macrophylla) type do not do well in western exposures. The hot afternoon sun stresses and wilts these plants. They will need plenty of moisture in this exposure or some protection from the hot afternoon sun.
Leaves can wilt and turn yellow because of lack of water or too much water. There is no way to know which it is other than to know more details on your watering practices. Hydrangeas like moist soils, not wet soils. The ground should not be muddy or have standing water at the base of your hydrangeas. Maybe you've been watering too much?
Is it just a few leaves? Are all the leaves on the same branches? If you have broken a few branches during transplanting, the leaves will wilt and turn yellow.
I've used the root stimulants and have found them to mostly be a waste of money.
Reply:Hydrangeas are pretty needy for fertilizer and water. They do best in morning sun and afternoon shade. When you plant anything, first yu need to loosen up the roots, this helps the root system start growing into the soil quicker, therefore you don't need chemical root stimulators, if it is really root bound you can cut an X at the bottom of the plants roots. Give the plant a little more time to get established, if the leaves are yellow remove them, new ones will replace them, as for wilting, Hydrangea's do this in the hot sun and it's theie way of protecting themselves from the heat of the sun, that is why when you water you plant make sure the water reaches the roots, do not surface water any plant, when you do this the roots start growing toward the surface of the ground, instead of the bottom of the ground. If you haven't had the plant in the ground very long you may want to dig it up and loosen the roots and plant with alittle time-release fertilizer mixed into the whole. Happy Growing!!!!!!!!!!!
Reply:Fertilome makes a product; Root Stimulator. It's shocked, stim it.
Reply:its in shock
you know they have special soil needs???
Reply:Some hydranga leaves are shaped like that especially the modern ones yes in the modern ones the leaves are curled but it will probaly be turning yellow because of the soil is wrong take a pH of the soil check on the net or in gardening books to see what the pH of the soil should be for a Hydranga.
larry
Where should I plant a hydrangea plant, sunny or shade?
Hydrangeas grow in full sun or light shade. To liven up a shady area, choose light colored blossoms. To improve moisture retention and soil texture, ammend with compost or leaf mold before planting. Big-leafed hydrangeas require acid soil: pH 6.0 to 6.5 for pink flowers, pH 5.0 to 5.5 for blue ones. For seaside gardens, choose big-leafed hydrangeas. For hedges, plant hills-of-snow hydrangeas 2 to 3 feet apart.
Where should I plant a hydrangea plant, sunny or shade?
Well-drained, acid rich soil is best for blue flowers, alkaline for pink, white flowered varieties won't change colour - add peat at planting time. Prefers light shade.
Reply:Sunny. Also, make sure you put about 2-3 inches of mulch on top of the soil to retain moisture and protect the roots in winter (if you live in a region where it gets cold and the ground freezes). My mother's hydrangeas died because we didnt know that we had to do that. Also, again if you life in a cold climate region in the winter, wrap your plant in burlap to protect the branches from frost damage, which eventually kills the plant.
Reply:they do well in both locations,but you'll get better flowers in a mostly sunny spot...
Reply:Sunny it will bloom alot more
Where should I plant a hydrangea plant, sunny or shade?
Well-drained, acid rich soil is best for blue flowers, alkaline for pink, white flowered varieties won't change colour - add peat at planting time. Prefers light shade.
Reply:Sunny. Also, make sure you put about 2-3 inches of mulch on top of the soil to retain moisture and protect the roots in winter (if you live in a region where it gets cold and the ground freezes). My mother's hydrangeas died because we didnt know that we had to do that. Also, again if you life in a cold climate region in the winter, wrap your plant in burlap to protect the branches from frost damage, which eventually kills the plant.
Reply:they do well in both locations,but you'll get better flowers in a mostly sunny spot...
Reply:Sunny it will bloom alot more
How can I tell the difference between american bittersweet and a climbing hydrangea?
I have a climbing vine on an arbor in my yard. It was planted by the previous owners. I though it was bittersweet , but my neighbor said it was a climbing hydrangea. From the pictures I found online they both look incredibly similar, and if it is a male bittersweet it will not produce the telltale berries. How can I tell what kind of plant it is?
How can I tell the difference between american bittersweet and a climbing hydrangea?
Bittersweet - alternate leaf pattern
Hydrangea - opposite leaf pattern
American Bittersweet (Celastrus scandens) will produce leaves along the branch in an alternate fashion. One leaf on one side of the branch, move along the branch some distance and you'll find another leaf on the other side of the branch.
Climbing Hydrangea (Hydrangea anomela) produces leaves in pairs directly across from each other (opposite).
Reply:Do you live in the Northeast (i.e. New England)? If not then I doubt seriously that it's native bittersweet. It is an endangered and rare plant.
I have some on my back porch. It has green leaves and red, hard berries. The berries start out looking like they are orange but this is just a shell which drops off.
Good luck
Reply:YOU can't .............but I can !! HAHAHAHAHAHA
How can I tell the difference between american bittersweet and a climbing hydrangea?
Bittersweet - alternate leaf pattern
Hydrangea - opposite leaf pattern
American Bittersweet (Celastrus scandens) will produce leaves along the branch in an alternate fashion. One leaf on one side of the branch, move along the branch some distance and you'll find another leaf on the other side of the branch.
Climbing Hydrangea (Hydrangea anomela) produces leaves in pairs directly across from each other (opposite).
Reply:Do you live in the Northeast (i.e. New England)? If not then I doubt seriously that it's native bittersweet. It is an endangered and rare plant.
I have some on my back porch. It has green leaves and red, hard berries. The berries start out looking like they are orange but this is just a shell which drops off.
Good luck
Reply:YOU can't .............but I can !! HAHAHAHAHAHA
How do I get my Hydrangea to bloom? Had it 8 years and only bloomed once. HELP!!?
The plants are large and green and healthy, just never blooms
How do I get my Hydrangea to bloom? Had it 8 years and only bloomed once. HELP!!?
Hydrangeas of any species should be planted in the spring time after the fear of last frost or in the fall well before the night time temperatures flirt with 32 degrees. If planting in the fall you should avoid high doses of fertilizer as you do not want soft growth while entering into winter. You are best off using a water soluble fertilizer at ? strength and only apply it twice after fall planting. Planting of hydrangeas should be done 45-60 days before the first expected freeze.
The soil should be rich in organic matter and drain well. Avoid planting in highly sandy soils and heavy clay soil. Amend the sandy soil with aged compost and only plant on or near clay if the water will drain away.
Feed your hydrangeas! Hydrangeas are greedy plants and do best when fed enough during the early to middle part of the growing season. I suggest a slow release fertilizer such as Osmocote slow release with minors. An N-P-K ratio of 10-10-10 is fine. This feed can be purchased through my website or at home depot for roughly $5.00 per pound. Aged manure is excellent for adjusting your soil but has a very small kick as far as the N-P-K requirements are concerned. Using aged manure (fresh manure will burn plants) in combination with a slow release fertilizer is ideal if your soil is poor to begin with.
I can't state enough the importance of regular irrigation both after planting and 5 years later even after the hydrangea is established. Newly planted hydrangeas should be watered well once a day if planted in a shadier spot and twice a day if planted in more sun for the first two to three weeks. Really babying them pays off. Established plants really shine if pampered with regular irrigation. I have my display garden on a daily watering cycle for the first half of the growing season and every third day after the heat of August has passed. I stop irrigating and let nature take over in early September.
Propagating hydrangeas top
Hydrangeas are one of the easiest shrubs to duplicate by tip cuttings and layering. Both techniques will be described below starting with tip cuttings.
Take a 4-6" cutting from the tip of a hydrangea in active growth. Rapid growing stems (soft wood) make for better cuttings than late season (semi hard wood) cuttings do. The cutting should have 4-6 sets of bud axilles with the cut in the stem
Remove the foliage from the bottom set of buds and cut the top leaves in half. By removing the bottom foliage and reducing the top foliage by ?, you will be limiting the surface area from which moisture can be removed from the cutting.
Prepare your soiless medium. I use 70% perlite and 30% peat moss. Mix the two products together and fill in your rooting container. You can use a small plastic pot or any type of small container that has a drainiage hole in it. Soak the medium and allow the water to run off.
Dip the cutting in rooting hormone if desired (I don't use the rooting hormone as it is not necessary for hydrangeas) the hormone will increase the rooting time by 5-7 days. Using a pencil, dibble a hole in your rooting medium and place the cutting in roughly 2" and softly pack the medium back in and around the hydrangea stem.
Place the container in an area where there will be no direct light, no wind and no heavy shade. Some people place the container in a clear plastic bag with coat hangers or wood sticks fashioned as a mini greenhouse. This process locks in moisture and also raises the temperature. 70-75 degrees is perfect for successful rooting. Too high of a temperature will cook your cuttings and too low of a temperature will slow the rooting process allowing all of the possible mis-haps to occur while struggling to form roots.
That first soaking should last for a while. Do not overwater. Once the top of the rooting medium looks like it is starting to dry out you can apply more water. Too much water will rot your cuttings and too little water will cause the leaves to droop and eventually die out. In the correct environment, your cuttings should root out in 3-5 weeks depending on weather or not you used a rooting hormone. Tugging on the cutting lightly in three weeks time you may feel some resistance. Wait 3-5 more days and transplant to a larger container. If the cutting pops right up, just leave it alone and check it out in another week. Once transplanted, do not allow the cutting to be placed in direct all day sun. For the first few days place the new plant in morning sun for an hour or so and increase the exposure an hour every day after the first three days by an hour until the plant is able to adjust itself to the full exposure.
1st year hydrangeas should not be expected to overwinter in a frozen state. They must be babied a bit and not allowed to freeze solid as this will more than likely kill them. I have killed thousands of cuttings in the past. Failure is ok as you must try again. In the north, you must place the hydrangea in an area where it will not freeze. After the first winter has passed there is usually enough mass to the stems to survive the second winter exposed to the elements.
Layering hydrangeas top
Working with an existing hydrangea already planted in your landscape or a freshly planted hydrangea of your choosing, layering is an easy and more successful method of propagating then is softwood tip cuttings as previously written about. Each method has it's own benefits. When using the tip cutting method you can reproduce 100's even 1000's of hydrangea cuttings in a relatively small space. When propagating by the layering method you can only get a few plants per stem. While tip cuttings need an aftificial environment to survive, the layering method can be done right there in the natural setting.
Pick a hydrangea shrub in late spring to early summer that has fresh stem growth (green stems). Pull an outside stem to the ground making sure that it will reach and can actually be bent a little further down. Measure out a 6-12" section of the stem that you know will be underground (this is determined when you bend the stem over at the beginning) and mark the beginning and end with a pen or marker.
Make a cut 1/8th of an inch deep and an inch long and leave it attached on one end or just simply make a scratch in the stem an 1/8th of an inch deep and an inch long. Both methods accomplish the same thing. When you injure a hydrangea stem the plants survival instinct takes over and speeds up the rooting process.
Assuming that the surrounding garden soil is good, dig a pre-alligned 6-12" trench that is roughly 2-3" deep.
Pull the ready stem over and press it against the bottom of the trench while backfilling the trench with the other hand firmly packing the soil down. Water well. Place a brick or rock over the buried stem and forget about it and go on to another hydrangea. 1 shrub can produce many new plants this way. Every stem can be used without doing any harm to the plant.
Even though the stem will root out in 1-2 months you are best off leaving it right there until the following spring. Your first thought is "who wants to wait that long"? but since you can't leave a first year tip cutting out during the winter anyway, you can leave a first year layered hydrangea stem out during the winter as long as it is still attached to the mother plant. When you dig the new plant up in the spring you will have very strong shrub that will grow rapidly and more than likely flower the first season.
In the spring dig a small hole around the stem back closer to the mother plant and make a cut in the stem with pruners seperating your new hydrangea from the mother. With a small hand shovel, dig out a 6-8" wide and deep circular hole around the stem and pull up your prize and be ready to transplant to a pot or another are in the garden.
If you have the room and long enough canes on your hydrangea you may do what is called the serpintene method where you burry the lower section as decribed before in the layering method of propagation and bring the stem back up again and down again and back up once. This allows you to produce two plants out of one stem.
Pruning hydrangeas top
There has been much confusion over the years about when to prune or not prune. To make it as simple as possible each species will be listed below along with the correct method for pruning that particular species.
Macrophylla (mophead)
Roughly 98% of hydrangea macrophylla flowers off of old wood. This means that next years flowers are being formed on this years branches. The flowers for next season are usually being formed during and after flowering. My advice is to not prune this species but to purchase the right size variety for the particular area to be planted. Don't buy a 6' tall and wide Nikko Blue to go under a 4' window box. There are so many varieties available that you should be able to find a suitable hydrangea for even the smaller areas of your landscape. A general rule of thumb is the further down you prune a hydrangea macrophylla, the less flowers will form the following season. The other 2% that are the exception to this rule are hydrangea macrophylla 'Endless Summer, 'Penny Mac' and 'All Summer Beauty'. These fantastic varieties flower off of new wood as well as old wood. No matter if you have a severe winter or late frost that would normally damage flower buds, the new growth will contain flower buds that can't be destroyed unless you dry the plant out severely.
Serrata, involucrata and aspera
These species should be treated the same as macrophyllas as far as pruning is concerned. Choose the hydrangea with the ultimate finished height and spread in mind and don't prune to make a hydrangea fit an area that is too small.
Paniculata and arborescens
Both of these species of hydrangea flower off of new growth. Pruning is suggested. While you don't have to be quite this exacting, the following guidelines are what I suggest for best results. In the early spring, before new growth emerges past 2-3 inches, prune your pee gees and or arborescens in half. If the shrub is 4' tall, prune down to 2' tall. This encourages vigorous growth and great structure. You may prune all the way down to 6" nubs if you wish. This will cause rapid growth and enormous flowers which will usually flop over in high wind or the first heavy rain. No pruning at all will result in less vigorous growth and smaller flowers. I have found that pruning down by ? of the previous seasons growth to be the happy medium. An old overgrown pee gee that is not performing may need to be severely pruned down hard to encourage new shoots and rejuvenate the entire plant.
Anomala petiolaris
Climbers do not need to be pruned. Their growth tends to seem stunted in the early stages however, rapid growth will ensue after the 3rd or 4th year. Pruning can be done if you wish to stop a certain direction of growth.
Altering the flower color of hydrangeas top
The most exciting aspect of hydrangeas is the wide array of beautiful flowers in so many different colors and shades. The fact that you can manipulate the colors only adds to the overall attraction of these garden treasures. There are many different tricks one can use to alter flower color such as pennies and nails stuck in the soil but I will keep it simple and just suggest one recipe for blueing hydrangeas and one for making the flower color lighter or pinker. To go from dark blue or purple to pink and or from pink to blue or purple can take from 3-6 months depending on the soils ph and the amount of aluminum present in the soil. Be patient and plan ahead. Knowing the pH of your soil is helpful but not necessary. Most growers will grow their hydrangeas in a soil that is slightly acidic to near neutral because this is where hydrangeas will take up the most nutrients and perform the best as far as growth is concerned. This is the reason why you may have purchased a specific variety of hydrangea in the past with a certain color in mind only to have the blue hydrangea open pink. If you know your soil is generally acidic then you will need to apply the aluminum sulphate lightly, roughly ? as often as I recommend for a neutral soil. Dropping your soils pH too far can result in reducing your plants ability to take up nutrients causing poor performance and even death. Don't apply more aluminum sulphate than is recommended.
To blue your hydrangea
In a 1 gallon watering can filled with warm water mix in 1 heaping tablespoon of aluminum sulphate and stir well until the crystals are disolved. Avoiding the foliage, apply the entire gallon of solution slowly to the ground on and around the hydrangea. I water the hydrangea 1 hour before applying aluminum sulphate. This helps to avoid run off of the solution. I then pour one half of the solution and wait a few minutes before applying the rest. Start this application in early spring, before active growth if you need to play catch up, and repeat every 20-30 days until flowering. Once the flowers open you will be able to determine weather or not the desired results have been reached. If not, continue to apply the solution through the flowering of the plant and twice after the flowers have finished. After this you should stop for the winter and start in again in the spring. If you were close to the desired color the year before then you should only apply the solution every 35-40 days until flowering occurs. To maintain that level of pH, you will only need to apply aluminum sulphate 3 times a year or less after reaching the correct level. A pH tester can be purchased at home depot or any garden center and is really useful in determining when and how much aluminum sulphate to apply. You can also purchase aluminum sulphate at home depot as well. I also offer aluminum sulphate through the website and can ship it to arrive with your plants. The desired pH level for blueing hydrangeas is somewhere in the low 5's. 5.2-5.8 is where I experience great blues and purples. Fertilizer does have slight effects on the overall results but, if an even fertilizer is used, The desired results can be achieved without confusing things any further.
To lighten or pink a hydrangea
Success in doing this will depend on the variety of hydrangea as some varieties will simply not lighten to pink. You will also need to raise the pH. In doing this you will stop the hydrangea from taking up any naturally occuring aluminum present in the soil and therefore, stopping the blueing process. Lime is the best way for the home owner to raise the pH level. Add dolomitic lime 3-4 times a year starting in the early spring or even the previous fall. Applying a fertilizer high in phosphorus will aid in keeping aluminum out of your hydrangeas system. On the bag you will see the n-p-k ratio. Phosphorus is the middle number. You will want a fertilizer with an elevated level of phosphorus such as 10-20-10. Foundation plantings are often exposed to higher levels of lime due to the cement foundation itself leaching it out over time. If you are planting up next to the house, you may not need to add anything to the soil for pink flowers. Remember, some varieties will not go pink. In each description of the varieties that I offer I state the color range you will experience.
Transplanting hydrangeas top
The best time to transplant hydrangeas is when the hydrangea is dormant. During this period, you may transplant at any time. Even a mature shrub will need to be babied after transplanting. Irrigate as you would any newly planted shrub. Dig as large a rootball as you think you can handle while leaving fully grown hydrangea transplanting to a landscaper or gardener. The larger the rootball, the less stress and root disturbance will occur resulting in a higher rate of success. If you must move hydranges during the spring or fall after active growth has begun, you can call me toll free at 1-888-642-1333 and we can discuss your individual circumstances to determine the best plan of attack. During this time success rates drop sharply.
Why won't my hydrangeas bloom? top
There are many reason for a hydrangea to fail to bloom. I will start with the most common reasons and go from there.
I have found that the most common reason for lack of blooms is pruning at the wrong time during the season and eliminating the flower buds. My advice is to not prune your hydrangeas other than simple removal of spent flowers which will be pruned off just below the flower itself at the next lower set of buds. You may prune the tops of your hydrangeas after the active growth begins in spring and it is obvious what is dead and what is not. Be careful because even now I am still speculating that certain buds are dead only to notice a few weeks later that the bud I thought was dead is now a stem in active growth. Remember that paniculatas and arborescens can be pruned as they flower off of new growth. There are also some varieties of macrophylla that bloom off of new wood and can be pruned in late season. Those varieties are 'All Summer Beauty', 'Penny Mac' and 'Endless Summer'. It is these hydrangeas that are confusing everybody as to what, when and where to prune or not prune. Don't put yourself in a situation where you are forced to prune. Be patient in the spring and wait for all buds to return before pruning the tips.
Too cold of a climate for successful hydrangea flowering. If you are in zone 5 you will not have luck with 95% of the available mopheads on the market. If your neighbors do not have hydrangeas, other than pee gees or annabelles, you are more than likely in too cold of an area for successful bud return. What confuses things is that the climate seems to be changing and zone lines may shift from year to year. We also are experiencing el nino every 7 years or so and this is causing variations in our winters from mild one year to severe the next year. While the hydrangeas will grow like crazy and give you lots of great foliage, the buds will always burn in a normal zone 5 winter.
Planted in heavy shade. Too much shade can be a cause of non flowering simply because of the lack of energy from the sun. You will notice less flowers gradually as the years go on. Transplant to a sunnier location.
Severe dry spells the season before can and does cause the hydrange to not flower. This can be avoided by choosing a location that is not too sunny and by adding some sort of irrigation system.
While some soils can be so poor as to cause growth and flowering problems, the above 4 reasons are the main causes of a non flowering hydrangea.
Reply:Contact your local garden center. i believe they are acid loving and require acid to bloom. I just can't be sure though. Most garden centers or landscape centers will have the answer for you.
How do I get my Hydrangea to bloom? Had it 8 years and only bloomed once. HELP!!?
Hydrangeas of any species should be planted in the spring time after the fear of last frost or in the fall well before the night time temperatures flirt with 32 degrees. If planting in the fall you should avoid high doses of fertilizer as you do not want soft growth while entering into winter. You are best off using a water soluble fertilizer at ? strength and only apply it twice after fall planting. Planting of hydrangeas should be done 45-60 days before the first expected freeze.
The soil should be rich in organic matter and drain well. Avoid planting in highly sandy soils and heavy clay soil. Amend the sandy soil with aged compost and only plant on or near clay if the water will drain away.
Feed your hydrangeas! Hydrangeas are greedy plants and do best when fed enough during the early to middle part of the growing season. I suggest a slow release fertilizer such as Osmocote slow release with minors. An N-P-K ratio of 10-10-10 is fine. This feed can be purchased through my website or at home depot for roughly $5.00 per pound. Aged manure is excellent for adjusting your soil but has a very small kick as far as the N-P-K requirements are concerned. Using aged manure (fresh manure will burn plants) in combination with a slow release fertilizer is ideal if your soil is poor to begin with.
I can't state enough the importance of regular irrigation both after planting and 5 years later even after the hydrangea is established. Newly planted hydrangeas should be watered well once a day if planted in a shadier spot and twice a day if planted in more sun for the first two to three weeks. Really babying them pays off. Established plants really shine if pampered with regular irrigation. I have my display garden on a daily watering cycle for the first half of the growing season and every third day after the heat of August has passed. I stop irrigating and let nature take over in early September.
Propagating hydrangeas top
Hydrangeas are one of the easiest shrubs to duplicate by tip cuttings and layering. Both techniques will be described below starting with tip cuttings.
Take a 4-6" cutting from the tip of a hydrangea in active growth. Rapid growing stems (soft wood) make for better cuttings than late season (semi hard wood) cuttings do. The cutting should have 4-6 sets of bud axilles with the cut in the stem
Remove the foliage from the bottom set of buds and cut the top leaves in half. By removing the bottom foliage and reducing the top foliage by ?, you will be limiting the surface area from which moisture can be removed from the cutting.
Prepare your soiless medium. I use 70% perlite and 30% peat moss. Mix the two products together and fill in your rooting container. You can use a small plastic pot or any type of small container that has a drainiage hole in it. Soak the medium and allow the water to run off.
Dip the cutting in rooting hormone if desired (I don't use the rooting hormone as it is not necessary for hydrangeas) the hormone will increase the rooting time by 5-7 days. Using a pencil, dibble a hole in your rooting medium and place the cutting in roughly 2" and softly pack the medium back in and around the hydrangea stem.
Place the container in an area where there will be no direct light, no wind and no heavy shade. Some people place the container in a clear plastic bag with coat hangers or wood sticks fashioned as a mini greenhouse. This process locks in moisture and also raises the temperature. 70-75 degrees is perfect for successful rooting. Too high of a temperature will cook your cuttings and too low of a temperature will slow the rooting process allowing all of the possible mis-haps to occur while struggling to form roots.
That first soaking should last for a while. Do not overwater. Once the top of the rooting medium looks like it is starting to dry out you can apply more water. Too much water will rot your cuttings and too little water will cause the leaves to droop and eventually die out. In the correct environment, your cuttings should root out in 3-5 weeks depending on weather or not you used a rooting hormone. Tugging on the cutting lightly in three weeks time you may feel some resistance. Wait 3-5 more days and transplant to a larger container. If the cutting pops right up, just leave it alone and check it out in another week. Once transplanted, do not allow the cutting to be placed in direct all day sun. For the first few days place the new plant in morning sun for an hour or so and increase the exposure an hour every day after the first three days by an hour until the plant is able to adjust itself to the full exposure.
1st year hydrangeas should not be expected to overwinter in a frozen state. They must be babied a bit and not allowed to freeze solid as this will more than likely kill them. I have killed thousands of cuttings in the past. Failure is ok as you must try again. In the north, you must place the hydrangea in an area where it will not freeze. After the first winter has passed there is usually enough mass to the stems to survive the second winter exposed to the elements.
Layering hydrangeas top
Working with an existing hydrangea already planted in your landscape or a freshly planted hydrangea of your choosing, layering is an easy and more successful method of propagating then is softwood tip cuttings as previously written about. Each method has it's own benefits. When using the tip cutting method you can reproduce 100's even 1000's of hydrangea cuttings in a relatively small space. When propagating by the layering method you can only get a few plants per stem. While tip cuttings need an aftificial environment to survive, the layering method can be done right there in the natural setting.
Pick a hydrangea shrub in late spring to early summer that has fresh stem growth (green stems). Pull an outside stem to the ground making sure that it will reach and can actually be bent a little further down. Measure out a 6-12" section of the stem that you know will be underground (this is determined when you bend the stem over at the beginning) and mark the beginning and end with a pen or marker.
Make a cut 1/8th of an inch deep and an inch long and leave it attached on one end or just simply make a scratch in the stem an 1/8th of an inch deep and an inch long. Both methods accomplish the same thing. When you injure a hydrangea stem the plants survival instinct takes over and speeds up the rooting process.
Assuming that the surrounding garden soil is good, dig a pre-alligned 6-12" trench that is roughly 2-3" deep.
Pull the ready stem over and press it against the bottom of the trench while backfilling the trench with the other hand firmly packing the soil down. Water well. Place a brick or rock over the buried stem and forget about it and go on to another hydrangea. 1 shrub can produce many new plants this way. Every stem can be used without doing any harm to the plant.
Even though the stem will root out in 1-2 months you are best off leaving it right there until the following spring. Your first thought is "who wants to wait that long"? but since you can't leave a first year tip cutting out during the winter anyway, you can leave a first year layered hydrangea stem out during the winter as long as it is still attached to the mother plant. When you dig the new plant up in the spring you will have very strong shrub that will grow rapidly and more than likely flower the first season.
In the spring dig a small hole around the stem back closer to the mother plant and make a cut in the stem with pruners seperating your new hydrangea from the mother. With a small hand shovel, dig out a 6-8" wide and deep circular hole around the stem and pull up your prize and be ready to transplant to a pot or another are in the garden.
If you have the room and long enough canes on your hydrangea you may do what is called the serpintene method where you burry the lower section as decribed before in the layering method of propagation and bring the stem back up again and down again and back up once. This allows you to produce two plants out of one stem.
Pruning hydrangeas top
There has been much confusion over the years about when to prune or not prune. To make it as simple as possible each species will be listed below along with the correct method for pruning that particular species.
Macrophylla (mophead)
Roughly 98% of hydrangea macrophylla flowers off of old wood. This means that next years flowers are being formed on this years branches. The flowers for next season are usually being formed during and after flowering. My advice is to not prune this species but to purchase the right size variety for the particular area to be planted. Don't buy a 6' tall and wide Nikko Blue to go under a 4' window box. There are so many varieties available that you should be able to find a suitable hydrangea for even the smaller areas of your landscape. A general rule of thumb is the further down you prune a hydrangea macrophylla, the less flowers will form the following season. The other 2% that are the exception to this rule are hydrangea macrophylla 'Endless Summer, 'Penny Mac' and 'All Summer Beauty'. These fantastic varieties flower off of new wood as well as old wood. No matter if you have a severe winter or late frost that would normally damage flower buds, the new growth will contain flower buds that can't be destroyed unless you dry the plant out severely.
Serrata, involucrata and aspera
These species should be treated the same as macrophyllas as far as pruning is concerned. Choose the hydrangea with the ultimate finished height and spread in mind and don't prune to make a hydrangea fit an area that is too small.
Paniculata and arborescens
Both of these species of hydrangea flower off of new growth. Pruning is suggested. While you don't have to be quite this exacting, the following guidelines are what I suggest for best results. In the early spring, before new growth emerges past 2-3 inches, prune your pee gees and or arborescens in half. If the shrub is 4' tall, prune down to 2' tall. This encourages vigorous growth and great structure. You may prune all the way down to 6" nubs if you wish. This will cause rapid growth and enormous flowers which will usually flop over in high wind or the first heavy rain. No pruning at all will result in less vigorous growth and smaller flowers. I have found that pruning down by ? of the previous seasons growth to be the happy medium. An old overgrown pee gee that is not performing may need to be severely pruned down hard to encourage new shoots and rejuvenate the entire plant.
Anomala petiolaris
Climbers do not need to be pruned. Their growth tends to seem stunted in the early stages however, rapid growth will ensue after the 3rd or 4th year. Pruning can be done if you wish to stop a certain direction of growth.
Altering the flower color of hydrangeas top
The most exciting aspect of hydrangeas is the wide array of beautiful flowers in so many different colors and shades. The fact that you can manipulate the colors only adds to the overall attraction of these garden treasures. There are many different tricks one can use to alter flower color such as pennies and nails stuck in the soil but I will keep it simple and just suggest one recipe for blueing hydrangeas and one for making the flower color lighter or pinker. To go from dark blue or purple to pink and or from pink to blue or purple can take from 3-6 months depending on the soils ph and the amount of aluminum present in the soil. Be patient and plan ahead. Knowing the pH of your soil is helpful but not necessary. Most growers will grow their hydrangeas in a soil that is slightly acidic to near neutral because this is where hydrangeas will take up the most nutrients and perform the best as far as growth is concerned. This is the reason why you may have purchased a specific variety of hydrangea in the past with a certain color in mind only to have the blue hydrangea open pink. If you know your soil is generally acidic then you will need to apply the aluminum sulphate lightly, roughly ? as often as I recommend for a neutral soil. Dropping your soils pH too far can result in reducing your plants ability to take up nutrients causing poor performance and even death. Don't apply more aluminum sulphate than is recommended.
To blue your hydrangea
In a 1 gallon watering can filled with warm water mix in 1 heaping tablespoon of aluminum sulphate and stir well until the crystals are disolved. Avoiding the foliage, apply the entire gallon of solution slowly to the ground on and around the hydrangea. I water the hydrangea 1 hour before applying aluminum sulphate. This helps to avoid run off of the solution. I then pour one half of the solution and wait a few minutes before applying the rest. Start this application in early spring, before active growth if you need to play catch up, and repeat every 20-30 days until flowering. Once the flowers open you will be able to determine weather or not the desired results have been reached. If not, continue to apply the solution through the flowering of the plant and twice after the flowers have finished. After this you should stop for the winter and start in again in the spring. If you were close to the desired color the year before then you should only apply the solution every 35-40 days until flowering occurs. To maintain that level of pH, you will only need to apply aluminum sulphate 3 times a year or less after reaching the correct level. A pH tester can be purchased at home depot or any garden center and is really useful in determining when and how much aluminum sulphate to apply. You can also purchase aluminum sulphate at home depot as well. I also offer aluminum sulphate through the website and can ship it to arrive with your plants. The desired pH level for blueing hydrangeas is somewhere in the low 5's. 5.2-5.8 is where I experience great blues and purples. Fertilizer does have slight effects on the overall results but, if an even fertilizer is used, The desired results can be achieved without confusing things any further.
To lighten or pink a hydrangea
Success in doing this will depend on the variety of hydrangea as some varieties will simply not lighten to pink. You will also need to raise the pH. In doing this you will stop the hydrangea from taking up any naturally occuring aluminum present in the soil and therefore, stopping the blueing process. Lime is the best way for the home owner to raise the pH level. Add dolomitic lime 3-4 times a year starting in the early spring or even the previous fall. Applying a fertilizer high in phosphorus will aid in keeping aluminum out of your hydrangeas system. On the bag you will see the n-p-k ratio. Phosphorus is the middle number. You will want a fertilizer with an elevated level of phosphorus such as 10-20-10. Foundation plantings are often exposed to higher levels of lime due to the cement foundation itself leaching it out over time. If you are planting up next to the house, you may not need to add anything to the soil for pink flowers. Remember, some varieties will not go pink. In each description of the varieties that I offer I state the color range you will experience.
Transplanting hydrangeas top
The best time to transplant hydrangeas is when the hydrangea is dormant. During this period, you may transplant at any time. Even a mature shrub will need to be babied after transplanting. Irrigate as you would any newly planted shrub. Dig as large a rootball as you think you can handle while leaving fully grown hydrangea transplanting to a landscaper or gardener. The larger the rootball, the less stress and root disturbance will occur resulting in a higher rate of success. If you must move hydranges during the spring or fall after active growth has begun, you can call me toll free at 1-888-642-1333 and we can discuss your individual circumstances to determine the best plan of attack. During this time success rates drop sharply.
Why won't my hydrangeas bloom? top
There are many reason for a hydrangea to fail to bloom. I will start with the most common reasons and go from there.
I have found that the most common reason for lack of blooms is pruning at the wrong time during the season and eliminating the flower buds. My advice is to not prune your hydrangeas other than simple removal of spent flowers which will be pruned off just below the flower itself at the next lower set of buds. You may prune the tops of your hydrangeas after the active growth begins in spring and it is obvious what is dead and what is not. Be careful because even now I am still speculating that certain buds are dead only to notice a few weeks later that the bud I thought was dead is now a stem in active growth. Remember that paniculatas and arborescens can be pruned as they flower off of new growth. There are also some varieties of macrophylla that bloom off of new wood and can be pruned in late season. Those varieties are 'All Summer Beauty', 'Penny Mac' and 'Endless Summer'. It is these hydrangeas that are confusing everybody as to what, when and where to prune or not prune. Don't put yourself in a situation where you are forced to prune. Be patient in the spring and wait for all buds to return before pruning the tips.
Too cold of a climate for successful hydrangea flowering. If you are in zone 5 you will not have luck with 95% of the available mopheads on the market. If your neighbors do not have hydrangeas, other than pee gees or annabelles, you are more than likely in too cold of an area for successful bud return. What confuses things is that the climate seems to be changing and zone lines may shift from year to year. We also are experiencing el nino every 7 years or so and this is causing variations in our winters from mild one year to severe the next year. While the hydrangeas will grow like crazy and give you lots of great foliage, the buds will always burn in a normal zone 5 winter.
Planted in heavy shade. Too much shade can be a cause of non flowering simply because of the lack of energy from the sun. You will notice less flowers gradually as the years go on. Transplant to a sunnier location.
Severe dry spells the season before can and does cause the hydrange to not flower. This can be avoided by choosing a location that is not too sunny and by adding some sort of irrigation system.
While some soils can be so poor as to cause growth and flowering problems, the above 4 reasons are the main causes of a non flowering hydrangea.
Reply:Contact your local garden center. i believe they are acid loving and require acid to bloom. I just can't be sure though. Most garden centers or landscape centers will have the answer for you.
How do I keep a hydrangea red? I'm in zone 6, and i believe it's acidic soil.?
Alkaline soils produce the pink colours in hydrangeas and acidic soils make them blue coloured.
You just have to make your soil alkaline by adding lime. Follow the directions on the packet carefully you don't want to overdo it. You can buy a cheap PH test which will tell you whether the soil is alkaline or acid. You can use this in the garden regularly to check and see PH and if you need to alter for some plants.
You can buy red hydrangea macrophylla. The trick is to buy a dark coloured flowered plant even dark blue, once the soil is alkaline the plant will flower dark hot pink/red. Always pick the darkest flower colour you can to get the dark colours, and look for red flowering varieties such as 'sunset' and 'Geoffrey Chadbund'.
The reddest ones I've seen are not fire engine red but very dark red pinks, but every year more darker varieties are becoming available.
How do I keep a hydrangea red? I'm in zone 6, and i believe it's acidic soil.?
There are five main species but I'm assuming you mean Hydrangea macrophylla. Alkaline soil, high pH produces a pinkish color, whereas the the blue comes from acidic soils.
The "pink" is not really a pretty pink. I'm wondering if you are thinking about the PeeGee Hydrangea, Hydrangea paniculata. The flower heads are a bit different.....PeeGee is slightly conical and tinged pink.
Reply:Tea bags, coffee grounds, Epsom salts for blue. Rusty nails, or copperas for pink/red. Have fun.
Reply:Go to a plant store and find "Sunset Western Garden book" the really thick one and look it up, it will tell you what to do, It has tons of great info. Just look under hydrangea in the index.
Chemicals
You just have to make your soil alkaline by adding lime. Follow the directions on the packet carefully you don't want to overdo it. You can buy a cheap PH test which will tell you whether the soil is alkaline or acid. You can use this in the garden regularly to check and see PH and if you need to alter for some plants.
You can buy red hydrangea macrophylla. The trick is to buy a dark coloured flowered plant even dark blue, once the soil is alkaline the plant will flower dark hot pink/red. Always pick the darkest flower colour you can to get the dark colours, and look for red flowering varieties such as 'sunset' and 'Geoffrey Chadbund'.
The reddest ones I've seen are not fire engine red but very dark red pinks, but every year more darker varieties are becoming available.
How do I keep a hydrangea red? I'm in zone 6, and i believe it's acidic soil.?
There are five main species but I'm assuming you mean Hydrangea macrophylla. Alkaline soil, high pH produces a pinkish color, whereas the the blue comes from acidic soils.
The "pink" is not really a pretty pink. I'm wondering if you are thinking about the PeeGee Hydrangea, Hydrangea paniculata. The flower heads are a bit different.....PeeGee is slightly conical and tinged pink.
Reply:Tea bags, coffee grounds, Epsom salts for blue. Rusty nails, or copperas for pink/red. Have fun.
Reply:Go to a plant store and find "Sunset Western Garden book" the really thick one and look it up, it will tell you what to do, It has tons of great info. Just look under hydrangea in the index.
Chemicals
How do i guarantee my hydrangea flowers year on year but remains bushy?
Ideally i would trim it back after bloom but then i assume i would have no flowers for next year?
How do i guarantee my hydrangea flowers year on year but remains bushy?
You can cut back a hydrangea after blooming with no ill effect to next year's bloom. Mine are cut back every year.
Do bear in mind there are no GUARANTEES when it comes to plants, however..
Reply:Leave all the old blooms on till all frost is over next spring and then cut off. This protects the new shoots coming on underneath
Reply:I trim mine back by half every year and they always flower again and again. Use the none flowering tips as new plants and pot them up then you'll have many more great flowers next year. Good luck and happy gardening
Reply:With gardening there are no guarantees, a lot is dependant on outside influences like the weather, correct feeding etc. However, I have found that the more you prune hydrangeas the better they are the following year, it is the one plant I have never managed to kill off, and I prune mine right back each year.
Reply:The optimum time to cut back a hydrangea is in March. The dead blooms should be left on thru' the winter, and then the plant cut back to within about 2 inches of the soil. Feed the plant with a high potash fertiliser and never let it dry out. It is not easy to overwater a hydrangea!
Reply:Hydrangeas die back for the winter and come back every spring a bit bigger. You don't really have to do anything except cut off the spent flowers.
Reply:I think there are a lot of varieties of hydrangeas, but some only bloom on old wood.
How do i guarantee my hydrangea flowers year on year but remains bushy?
You can cut back a hydrangea after blooming with no ill effect to next year's bloom. Mine are cut back every year.
Do bear in mind there are no GUARANTEES when it comes to plants, however..
Reply:Leave all the old blooms on till all frost is over next spring and then cut off. This protects the new shoots coming on underneath
Reply:I trim mine back by half every year and they always flower again and again. Use the none flowering tips as new plants and pot them up then you'll have many more great flowers next year. Good luck and happy gardening
Reply:With gardening there are no guarantees, a lot is dependant on outside influences like the weather, correct feeding etc. However, I have found that the more you prune hydrangeas the better they are the following year, it is the one plant I have never managed to kill off, and I prune mine right back each year.
Reply:The optimum time to cut back a hydrangea is in March. The dead blooms should be left on thru' the winter, and then the plant cut back to within about 2 inches of the soil. Feed the plant with a high potash fertiliser and never let it dry out. It is not easy to overwater a hydrangea!
Reply:Hydrangeas die back for the winter and come back every spring a bit bigger. You don't really have to do anything except cut off the spent flowers.
Reply:I think there are a lot of varieties of hydrangeas, but some only bloom on old wood.
How old do Pee-Gee Hydrangea's have to be to flower?
I bought this pee- gee 2 summers ago and it has yet to bud. It is about 3 or 4 years old. I live in Michigan zone wise. When should I expect to see a bud or something.
How old do Pee-Gee Hydrangea's have to be to flower?
It should of bloomed by now, try giving it fertilizer and don't prune it until after you get blooms.
addition details:
I think that it is a little small for it's age. It definitely needs more sun and I would suggest fertilizing it every week and a half. It would be best if you could plant it in the ground, but if not try to re-pot it using a very good soil mixture of potting soil, some sand, some vermiculite, a little bit of peat moss and Osmacoat, not sure of spelling but it is a pellet form of
fertilizer. After that make sure it gets watered adequately and at least 6 hours of afternoon sun. If possible try to use some mulch on the top of soil. A simple wood bark, not cypress. Don't prune it till next year after April. I Hope this helps. Good luck!
Reply:They usually flower right away . They start in August . If it's only 2 years old , I wouldn't worry about . Did you prune it at all? Probably shouldn't do it after May , or you might eliminate the flowers . Make sure it doesn't get so dry that it wilts . That could kill the flowers .
Reply:i live in newfoundland and i have 2 bushes, the second summer after planting they produce flowers. i feed them every 2 weeks after the leaves come out until fall.
How old do Pee-Gee Hydrangea's have to be to flower?
It should of bloomed by now, try giving it fertilizer and don't prune it until after you get blooms.
addition details:
I think that it is a little small for it's age. It definitely needs more sun and I would suggest fertilizing it every week and a half. It would be best if you could plant it in the ground, but if not try to re-pot it using a very good soil mixture of potting soil, some sand, some vermiculite, a little bit of peat moss and Osmacoat, not sure of spelling but it is a pellet form of
fertilizer. After that make sure it gets watered adequately and at least 6 hours of afternoon sun. If possible try to use some mulch on the top of soil. A simple wood bark, not cypress. Don't prune it till next year after April. I Hope this helps. Good luck!
Reply:They usually flower right away . They start in August . If it's only 2 years old , I wouldn't worry about . Did you prune it at all? Probably shouldn't do it after May , or you might eliminate the flowers . Make sure it doesn't get so dry that it wilts . That could kill the flowers .
Reply:i live in newfoundland and i have 2 bushes, the second summer after planting they produce flowers. i feed them every 2 weeks after the leaves come out until fall.
I have just received a hydrangea , which is in bloom when can i plant it outdoors?
what is the best time to plant outdoors.
it's in full bloom now. what kind of care does it need ( lots of sun, little sun,????)
should i cut the blooms off, then plant?
I have just received a hydrangea , which is in bloom when can i plant it outdoors?
Was it received from a florist or a garden center? If it was purchased from a florist, then it has probably never seen the light of the real sun, so wait until after it blooms, cut it back some and plant it in a location that receives morning sun and afternoon shade.
If it came from a garden center, then it should already be acclimated and can be planted now, in morning sun and afternoon shade.
If your air conditioner is on the north or east side of your house, it will thrive there as it loves moist soil and your a.c. constantly drips during the summer.
Hope this helps! Good Luck!
Reply:Plant it right now, as it is. Put in semi-shade
it's in full bloom now. what kind of care does it need ( lots of sun, little sun,????)
should i cut the blooms off, then plant?
I have just received a hydrangea , which is in bloom when can i plant it outdoors?
Was it received from a florist or a garden center? If it was purchased from a florist, then it has probably never seen the light of the real sun, so wait until after it blooms, cut it back some and plant it in a location that receives morning sun and afternoon shade.
If it came from a garden center, then it should already be acclimated and can be planted now, in morning sun and afternoon shade.
If your air conditioner is on the north or east side of your house, it will thrive there as it loves moist soil and your a.c. constantly drips during the summer.
Hope this helps! Good Luck!
Reply:Plant it right now, as it is. Put in semi-shade
I have just received a hydrangea , which is in bloom when can i plant it outdoors?
what is the best time to plant outdoors.
it's in full bloom now. what kind of care does it need ( lots of sun, little sun,????)
should i cut the blooms off, then plant?
I have just received a hydrangea , which is in bloom when can i plant it outdoors?
Was it received from a florist or a garden center? If it was purchased from a florist, then it has probably never seen the light of the real sun, so wait until after it blooms, cut it back some and plant it in a location that receives morning sun and afternoon shade.
If it came from a garden center, then it should already be acclimated and can be planted now, in morning sun and afternoon shade.
If your air conditioner is on the north or east side of your house, it will thrive there as it loves moist soil and your a.c. constantly drips during the summer.
Hope this helps! Good Luck!
Reply:Plant it right now, as it is. Put in semi-shade
miriam
it's in full bloom now. what kind of care does it need ( lots of sun, little sun,????)
should i cut the blooms off, then plant?
I have just received a hydrangea , which is in bloom when can i plant it outdoors?
Was it received from a florist or a garden center? If it was purchased from a florist, then it has probably never seen the light of the real sun, so wait until after it blooms, cut it back some and plant it in a location that receives morning sun and afternoon shade.
If it came from a garden center, then it should already be acclimated and can be planted now, in morning sun and afternoon shade.
If your air conditioner is on the north or east side of your house, it will thrive there as it loves moist soil and your a.c. constantly drips during the summer.
Hope this helps! Good Luck!
Reply:Plant it right now, as it is. Put in semi-shade
miriam
When should I transplant my hydrangea bush? I live in the midwest.?
Also, I have one that doesn't bloom but it had flowers on it when I bought it. Now it doesn't bloom. (for 4 years!)
When should I transplant my hydrangea bush? I live in the midwest.?
When it dies this fall. Cut it back to almost the ground, dig it up a put it wherever you want it. How close together do you have the bushes? Maybe you should put them closer together. They also like acid soil, so maybe you should check your soil's PH levels. I hope this helps.
Reply:Now is a great time to transplant your hydrangea as it will give it a chance to get established before it starts blooming next year.
The most common reasons for lack of blooming are:
1)winter cold damage to flower buds
2)improper pruning
3)fertilizing with a high nitrogen fertilizer
Without more details, it is just a guess as to which it may be, without any winter protection, I'd put my money on #1.
When should I transplant my hydrangea bush? I live in the midwest.?
When it dies this fall. Cut it back to almost the ground, dig it up a put it wherever you want it. How close together do you have the bushes? Maybe you should put them closer together. They also like acid soil, so maybe you should check your soil's PH levels. I hope this helps.
Reply:Now is a great time to transplant your hydrangea as it will give it a chance to get established before it starts blooming next year.
The most common reasons for lack of blooming are:
1)winter cold damage to flower buds
2)improper pruning
3)fertilizing with a high nitrogen fertilizer
Without more details, it is just a guess as to which it may be, without any winter protection, I'd put my money on #1.
I bought a nikko blue hydrangea today. Can I still plant it in my yard? I am in Chicago.?
Absolutly! The best place for that plant during the winter is in the ground. But a few words of warning about Nikko Blues in Chicago. That hydrangea is not stem hardy in our winters. It only blooms on second year wood. So you will have nice foliage next spring as new stems grow from the crown, but it is unlikely that you will ever see it bloom again. Unless global warming puts Chicago into a warmer cold hardiness zone.
Additional Details: Nikko blue Hydrangea is deciduous. They lose their leaves in fall. There will be no need to place burlap around a shrub with no leaves. Desiccation is the loss of moisture from a leaf in winter. It occurs because the lost moisture in the leaf can not be replaced when the water in the soil is frozen. Desiccation is a concern for broadleaf evergreens like Rhododendron and Azaleas, not a deciduous shrub like a Nikko blue hydrangea. Mulch is always beneficial to retard moisture loss from your soils. It can also help to moderate soil temperatures in summer. Soil is a good insulator and mulch will do little to moderate a soil's temperature in winter. It can help reduce the freeze thaw cycle in the top few inches and prevent the heaving of shallow planted bulbs, corm, tubers, etc. Since the Hydrangea has none of these, mulch will do little to protect hydrangea roots properly planted. Winter survival will be dependant upon the survival of your shrub's crown, not the roots. Mulch because this is the best thing to do to control weed seed germination and moderate soil moisture levels. Keep the mulch back off the stems of the shrubs to prevent crown rot and insects.
I bought a nikko blue hydrangea today. Can I still plant it in my yard? I am in Chicago.?
hello
look here
http://www.thegardenhelper.com/Hydrangea...
I hope it helps
Reply:Wow, you cannot keep it in the house! So put it in the yard (the ground is not frozen yet) and put some burlap around it on tall stakes to protect it from wind dessication - you need to be sure it has plenty of water when the days are not freezing and mulch the base - keep it back 1 or 2 inches from the plant stems, but you need to mulch the top of the root ball to protect it since the roots will not have enough time to get deep before the freeze hits.
Additional Details: Nikko blue Hydrangea is deciduous. They lose their leaves in fall. There will be no need to place burlap around a shrub with no leaves. Desiccation is the loss of moisture from a leaf in winter. It occurs because the lost moisture in the leaf can not be replaced when the water in the soil is frozen. Desiccation is a concern for broadleaf evergreens like Rhododendron and Azaleas, not a deciduous shrub like a Nikko blue hydrangea. Mulch is always beneficial to retard moisture loss from your soils. It can also help to moderate soil temperatures in summer. Soil is a good insulator and mulch will do little to moderate a soil's temperature in winter. It can help reduce the freeze thaw cycle in the top few inches and prevent the heaving of shallow planted bulbs, corm, tubers, etc. Since the Hydrangea has none of these, mulch will do little to protect hydrangea roots properly planted. Winter survival will be dependant upon the survival of your shrub's crown, not the roots. Mulch because this is the best thing to do to control weed seed germination and moderate soil moisture levels. Keep the mulch back off the stems of the shrubs to prevent crown rot and insects.
I bought a nikko blue hydrangea today. Can I still plant it in my yard? I am in Chicago.?
hello
look here
http://www.thegardenhelper.com/Hydrangea...
I hope it helps
Reply:Wow, you cannot keep it in the house! So put it in the yard (the ground is not frozen yet) and put some burlap around it on tall stakes to protect it from wind dessication - you need to be sure it has plenty of water when the days are not freezing and mulch the base - keep it back 1 or 2 inches from the plant stems, but you need to mulch the top of the root ball to protect it since the roots will not have enough time to get deep before the freeze hits.
I got an endless summer hydrangea for Mother's Day. Can I put it in a pot on my porch? How do I care for it?
yes you can and even better plant it in your garden. Just water and feed it just like the others
I got an endless summer hydrangea for Mother's Day. Can I put it in a pot on my porch? How do I care for it?
You need to plant it in a garden, some where in your yard. they get big, to big for a pot. also it would probably bloom better in the ground.
Reply:Use a good quality potting medium- one made for containers. Be sure the pot has a drain hole in the bottom. Hydrangeas need water but do not like the soil to stay damp-it needs to drain well between waterings. They are a shad e-loving plant so it should be happy on the porch. Do not forget to feed it, water soluable fertilizers are best because they do not burn the plant. Enjoy! I have that variety and really enjoy it.
Reply:you can plant it in a pot.care depends on the color of plant.blues do not need acid in the soil,reds and pinks do.do some online research before fertilizing.
I got an endless summer hydrangea for Mother's Day. Can I put it in a pot on my porch? How do I care for it?
You need to plant it in a garden, some where in your yard. they get big, to big for a pot. also it would probably bloom better in the ground.
Reply:Use a good quality potting medium- one made for containers. Be sure the pot has a drain hole in the bottom. Hydrangeas need water but do not like the soil to stay damp-it needs to drain well between waterings. They are a shad e-loving plant so it should be happy on the porch. Do not forget to feed it, water soluable fertilizers are best because they do not burn the plant. Enjoy! I have that variety and really enjoy it.
Reply:you can plant it in a pot.care depends on the color of plant.blues do not need acid in the soil,reds and pinks do.do some online research before fertilizing.
I have a big leaf hydrangea can I cut a flower off and plant it and grow another plant?
If you will take a long outside branch, scrape the bottom side of it, bend it down against the soil, and put a brick on top of it - it will root in a short time.
If the flower is mature it will have seed. They might take root and grow, but the flower itself won't.
Hope this helps.
I have a big leaf hydrangea can I cut a flower off and plant it and grow another plant?
no . but you can take a cutting from a branch .
rule of the thumb is take a cutting around pencil height and width -- cut a forty five degree angle on your cutting --- chop most all the leaves off maybe leaving a half at the top ( this conserves the energy of the cutting that you want to ' strike' ) obviously you get a pot and potting mix --- put your cutting in --- water in well and don't worry if the top half leaf dies (n because it will anyway ) --- don't over water ( like don't drown it every day ) once a week will be good enough --- and depending where you live --- don't be disturbed if it is dormant --- it will strike with the advice I've given you .
good luck .
irene
If the flower is mature it will have seed. They might take root and grow, but the flower itself won't.
Hope this helps.
I have a big leaf hydrangea can I cut a flower off and plant it and grow another plant?
no . but you can take a cutting from a branch .
rule of the thumb is take a cutting around pencil height and width -- cut a forty five degree angle on your cutting --- chop most all the leaves off maybe leaving a half at the top ( this conserves the energy of the cutting that you want to ' strike' ) obviously you get a pot and potting mix --- put your cutting in --- water in well and don't worry if the top half leaf dies (n because it will anyway ) --- don't over water ( like don't drown it every day ) once a week will be good enough --- and depending where you live --- don't be disturbed if it is dormant --- it will strike with the advice I've given you .
good luck .
irene
How can i plant a hydrangea plant in the garden?
Hydrangeas prefer acid soil and a shady location. Not too much water but dont let them dry out. Dig a hole 2x the diameter of the root ball and back-fill with some slightly acid soil ( soil mixed with Miracid or rotting vegetation) then put plant in the hole and continue filling the soil around it and pat it down by hand firmily. water well and LEAVE IT ALONE. Your plant may not bloom for the first year or two once it is getting established but once it does...watch out for some beautiful blooms on a huge shrub!
How can i plant a hydrangea plant in the garden?
Choose the planting site for your climber carefully: its long flexible stems may need some shelter, but planting right next to a wall might keep it from the sun or water it needs. Make sure that there's room for the climber to grow when it gets tall, and remember that it will grow towards the sun unless carefully trained. Be sure you will be able to manage the plant once it becomes tall, or that if it has a mind of its own, it won't become a problem.
Select a support structure before you plant your climber. Common support structures are trellises, wires, strings, or existing structures. Some plants, like ivy, climb by aerial roots and need no support. Aerial rooted climbers are fine for concrete and masonary, but should never be allowed to climb on wood. Clematis climbs by leaf stalks and the Passion flower by coiling tendrils. Akebia and Wisteria climb by twining stems in a spiral fashion around its support.
How can i plant a hydrangea plant in the garden?
Choose the planting site for your climber carefully: its long flexible stems may need some shelter, but planting right next to a wall might keep it from the sun or water it needs. Make sure that there's room for the climber to grow when it gets tall, and remember that it will grow towards the sun unless carefully trained. Be sure you will be able to manage the plant once it becomes tall, or that if it has a mind of its own, it won't become a problem.
Select a support structure before you plant your climber. Common support structures are trellises, wires, strings, or existing structures. Some plants, like ivy, climb by aerial roots and need no support. Aerial rooted climbers are fine for concrete and masonary, but should never be allowed to climb on wood. Clematis climbs by leaf stalks and the Passion flower by coiling tendrils. Akebia and Wisteria climb by twining stems in a spiral fashion around its support.
How do you look after a rose, daffodil, gebra and hydrangea quercifolia snow queen?
I need to know information about them each!
Please help me! I need it A.S.A.P!!
How do you look after a rose, daffodil, gebra and hydrangea quercifolia snow queen?
Rose Care:
http://www.backyardgardener.com/rose/ros...
Daffodil Care:
http://www.extension.umn.edu/info-u/plan...
Gebra (Gerberas) Care:
http://www.flowers.org.uk/plants/plantfa...
Hydrangea quercifolia snow queen Care:
http://www.crocus.co.uk/catalogue/home/?...
Please help me! I need it A.S.A.P!!
How do you look after a rose, daffodil, gebra and hydrangea quercifolia snow queen?
Rose Care:
http://www.backyardgardener.com/rose/ros...
Daffodil Care:
http://www.extension.umn.edu/info-u/plan...
Gebra (Gerberas) Care:
http://www.flowers.org.uk/plants/plantfa...
Hydrangea quercifolia snow queen Care:
http://www.crocus.co.uk/catalogue/home/?...
How do i get rid of black ants on my hydrangea bushes?
Any way to get rid of them without harming my bushes. the bulbs are starting to come out and there full of black ants.
How do i get rid of black ants on my hydrangea bushes?
get a bottle of "ortho" bug-b-gone concentrate and a tank sprayer, follow directions on the bottle
Reply:Maybe the ants are harvesting from aphids. Kill the aphids with soapy water.
Reply:burn them
Reply:yep, washing up liquid works a treat on killing ants - not sure what it does to hydrangea though!
How do i get rid of black ants on my hydrangea bushes?
get a bottle of "ortho" bug-b-gone concentrate and a tank sprayer, follow directions on the bottle
Reply:Maybe the ants are harvesting from aphids. Kill the aphids with soapy water.
Reply:burn them
Reply:yep, washing up liquid works a treat on killing ants - not sure what it does to hydrangea though!
Why doesn't my hydrangea bloom?
Ah, hydrangeas! One of my favorites!!!
To understand specifically why it does not bloom you must know your hydrangea.
If you are north of zone 6 (cental IL) and your hydrangea is supposed to be pink or blue of some variation of those colors the answer is it blooms on old wood. This means the bud will ALWAYS freeze and although the foliage probably looks great, you will NEVER (barring massive sudden global warming) get a bloom.
If you live south of or in zone 6 you pruned it. I would only prune colored hydrangeas for shape and to remove spent blooms if you find them aesthetically unpleasing.
Hydrangeas will bloom in shade though not as floriferously as in sun. That hydrangea starts with "hydr-" (from the Greek, "water-loving") is no accident.
Lots of water for the best from this plant!
If you really want a colored hydrangea, get the Endless Summer Hydrangea; cover it in the winter and plant in full sun with lots and lots of water and fertilizer.
Why doesn't my hydrangea bloom?
You aren't playing heavy metal music fot it... are you?? They like heavy metal....
Reply:Never had the problem myself -- just lucky, I guess. But, from The Garderner's Network:
No Blooms? The most common cause is winter damage. A frost will kill the buds. Too much shade and poor soil conditions can also result in no blooms.
Check the link below for more tips on proper soil, light and fertilizer conditions. Google "grow hydrangea" for other links. Good luck next year!!
Reply:Usually, when there is a problem with hydrangea blooming, it is because it was trimmed or sheared back too late the previous summer. Hydrangea buds set on the wood in mid to late summer for blooming the following year. If you trim it too late, you cut off the buds. No blooms. (Note, this is not true for every variety of hydrangea, but as soon as I hear of the blooming problem, this is the frequent cause.)
I have never quite figured the ideal time to trim hydrangea (and in part it depends on the variety and how it is growing in its location). But certainly if you trim after mid-August you are risking cutting the buds. Even early August could be a problem but July should be okay. To be safe, try to go one summer without cutting it back at all. If it blooms the following summer, then you have probably identified the issue.
Reply:You need to be more specific with your question. Hydrangeas fail to bloom for a variety of reasons. Among them are not enough water, too much shade/not enough sun, soil not rich enough or the plant may simply be too young. It would also help to know what zone you live in. Some plants will only bloom in certain zones.
Reply:It could be a couple of reasons. One reason could be that it needs fertilizer. Another possibility is that you pruned it at the wrong time of year and cut away wood that was going to be blooms. Never prune when it is dormant, best time is right after it finishes blooming. Also could be it is not happy with it's place in your yard. They like sun, but prefer morning sun and ample well drained soil.
Reply:Maybe the climate it too hot or too dry? I have had the best success with them in very humid areas with 'mild' weather (San Diego)
Wisdom Teeth
To understand specifically why it does not bloom you must know your hydrangea.
If you are north of zone 6 (cental IL) and your hydrangea is supposed to be pink or blue of some variation of those colors the answer is it blooms on old wood. This means the bud will ALWAYS freeze and although the foliage probably looks great, you will NEVER (barring massive sudden global warming) get a bloom.
If you live south of or in zone 6 you pruned it. I would only prune colored hydrangeas for shape and to remove spent blooms if you find them aesthetically unpleasing.
Hydrangeas will bloom in shade though not as floriferously as in sun. That hydrangea starts with "hydr-" (from the Greek, "water-loving") is no accident.
Lots of water for the best from this plant!
If you really want a colored hydrangea, get the Endless Summer Hydrangea; cover it in the winter and plant in full sun with lots and lots of water and fertilizer.
Why doesn't my hydrangea bloom?
You aren't playing heavy metal music fot it... are you?? They like heavy metal....
Reply:Never had the problem myself -- just lucky, I guess. But, from The Garderner's Network:
No Blooms? The most common cause is winter damage. A frost will kill the buds. Too much shade and poor soil conditions can also result in no blooms.
Check the link below for more tips on proper soil, light and fertilizer conditions. Google "grow hydrangea" for other links. Good luck next year!!
Reply:Usually, when there is a problem with hydrangea blooming, it is because it was trimmed or sheared back too late the previous summer. Hydrangea buds set on the wood in mid to late summer for blooming the following year. If you trim it too late, you cut off the buds. No blooms. (Note, this is not true for every variety of hydrangea, but as soon as I hear of the blooming problem, this is the frequent cause.)
I have never quite figured the ideal time to trim hydrangea (and in part it depends on the variety and how it is growing in its location). But certainly if you trim after mid-August you are risking cutting the buds. Even early August could be a problem but July should be okay. To be safe, try to go one summer without cutting it back at all. If it blooms the following summer, then you have probably identified the issue.
Reply:You need to be more specific with your question. Hydrangeas fail to bloom for a variety of reasons. Among them are not enough water, too much shade/not enough sun, soil not rich enough or the plant may simply be too young. It would also help to know what zone you live in. Some plants will only bloom in certain zones.
Reply:It could be a couple of reasons. One reason could be that it needs fertilizer. Another possibility is that you pruned it at the wrong time of year and cut away wood that was going to be blooms. Never prune when it is dormant, best time is right after it finishes blooming. Also could be it is not happy with it's place in your yard. They like sun, but prefer morning sun and ample well drained soil.
Reply:Maybe the climate it too hot or too dry? I have had the best success with them in very humid areas with 'mild' weather (San Diego)
Wisdom Teeth
When do you pick hydrangea for dried flowers and how far down the stem do you cut?
Many people in the Tyler area grow and appreciate hydrangeas for their large, showy flowers that bloom late and last several weeks before beginning to wane. One does not, however, necessarily have to bid farewell to the loveliness of these blue, lavender, or pink displays. On the contrary, if they are cut at just the right time, they will last several years indoors without having to fuss with any preservation techniques at all.
The key to having dried hydrangea arrangements in a home with little or no effort is to pick the blooms at just the point when they first begin to lose some color but before the blooms dry on the bush. They will still appear lush and will show some green within the original color of the blooms.
After they have been cut, just pop them into any decorator container or vase and enjoy. Do not add water or any liquid. As they continue to lose moisture, they will retain their color and shape for a long time. Eventually, the green tones will fade to an antique color and finally turn brown. But by then, you will have produced several more crops of hydrangeas to use as replacements.
When do you pick hydrangea for dried flowers and how far down the stem do you cut?
Yes, as stated above, cut just above two leaves. That way you'll get two new stems there. I have had my best no-brainer luck with Hydrangeas late in the season. I cut when the flowers were mostly dry, put them in a vase with no water. And they are still here. You will lose all the leaves. You know how when in Autumn the flowers sometimes are greenish, that is when to do it.
Good luck :-)
Reply:I have heard that it is best to wait until the blooms feel papery but still have good color. I would cut far enough down so that you have a stem to hang them from. If you don't want to cut all the way at the bottom of the stem then cut just above a set of leaves or leaf buds.
Reply:I cut mine in the middle of winter. Was told that that's the best time to prune them (when they're dormant). But I believe you could pick them any time. Cut as far down the stem as you wish. The taller the vase you're putting them in, the longer the stem you'll need. Generally you want to cut them just above a leaf node.
Reply:Well, when I dried mine I cut next to the joint where the stem grew. I picked nice full blooms. Then I hung them upside down and wired them to a rod in my utility room. They dry beautifully and stay a very long time.
The key to having dried hydrangea arrangements in a home with little or no effort is to pick the blooms at just the point when they first begin to lose some color but before the blooms dry on the bush. They will still appear lush and will show some green within the original color of the blooms.
After they have been cut, just pop them into any decorator container or vase and enjoy. Do not add water or any liquid. As they continue to lose moisture, they will retain their color and shape for a long time. Eventually, the green tones will fade to an antique color and finally turn brown. But by then, you will have produced several more crops of hydrangeas to use as replacements.
When do you pick hydrangea for dried flowers and how far down the stem do you cut?
Yes, as stated above, cut just above two leaves. That way you'll get two new stems there. I have had my best no-brainer luck with Hydrangeas late in the season. I cut when the flowers were mostly dry, put them in a vase with no water. And they are still here. You will lose all the leaves. You know how when in Autumn the flowers sometimes are greenish, that is when to do it.
Good luck :-)
Reply:I have heard that it is best to wait until the blooms feel papery but still have good color. I would cut far enough down so that you have a stem to hang them from. If you don't want to cut all the way at the bottom of the stem then cut just above a set of leaves or leaf buds.
Reply:I cut mine in the middle of winter. Was told that that's the best time to prune them (when they're dormant). But I believe you could pick them any time. Cut as far down the stem as you wish. The taller the vase you're putting them in, the longer the stem you'll need. Generally you want to cut them just above a leaf node.
Reply:Well, when I dried mine I cut next to the joint where the stem grew. I picked nice full blooms. Then I hung them upside down and wired them to a rod in my utility room. They dry beautifully and stay a very long time.
How quickly does climbing hydrangea grow on a wall and how does it compare to Silver Fleece Vine?
I like the way this vine looks, however, i am wondering if it will take too much time to establish nicely and what it looks like in the winter time.
Does anyone else know when this vine blooms also, and for how long?
Another option I was thinking of using Silver Fleece vine, but I have heard it really goes crazy in just one year. How long and when does this vine bloom?
also, how does it look in the winter?
Thanks for your answers!
How quickly does climbing hydrangea grow on a wall and how does it compare to Silver Fleece Vine?
Climbing hydrangea is a slow starter, it generally takes a couple of years to become established then takes off quite nicely. The flowers can be 6 to 10 inches in diameter and they generally appear in late June.
It is a lovely wall plant and the stems look quite architectural in the winter.
It is a top plant for a shady situation.
Silver Fleece Vine I believe is the same plant as Russian Vine, also know as Mile a Minute. That name should give you an idea of how quickly it establishes. I would advise strongly against planting this anywhere, it is a terrible weed and only looks presentable whilst it is in flower, the rest of the time it is a dreadful mess and will successfully resist all attempts to keep it tidy.
Reply:IT ONLY TAKES 4 MONTHS AND LOOK VERY VERY BAD IN WINTER.
Reply:Hydrangea Petiolaris grows without support, is slow, has reasonably nice flowers and is a good choice.
Neverheard of Silver Fleece Vine but if it is as previous answer suggests Russian Vine then it needs a lot of support to sustain the tons of vegetation produced.
Try Cotoneaster Horizontalis --------- RHS Gold Medal winner, self supporting, flowers, berries, shape ---what more is there ?
Cheers
Does anyone else know when this vine blooms also, and for how long?
Another option I was thinking of using Silver Fleece vine, but I have heard it really goes crazy in just one year. How long and when does this vine bloom?
also, how does it look in the winter?
Thanks for your answers!
How quickly does climbing hydrangea grow on a wall and how does it compare to Silver Fleece Vine?
Climbing hydrangea is a slow starter, it generally takes a couple of years to become established then takes off quite nicely. The flowers can be 6 to 10 inches in diameter and they generally appear in late June.
It is a lovely wall plant and the stems look quite architectural in the winter.
It is a top plant for a shady situation.
Silver Fleece Vine I believe is the same plant as Russian Vine, also know as Mile a Minute. That name should give you an idea of how quickly it establishes. I would advise strongly against planting this anywhere, it is a terrible weed and only looks presentable whilst it is in flower, the rest of the time it is a dreadful mess and will successfully resist all attempts to keep it tidy.
Reply:IT ONLY TAKES 4 MONTHS AND LOOK VERY VERY BAD IN WINTER.
Reply:Hydrangea Petiolaris grows without support, is slow, has reasonably nice flowers and is a good choice.
Neverheard of Silver Fleece Vine but if it is as previous answer suggests Russian Vine then it needs a lot of support to sustain the tons of vegetation produced.
Try Cotoneaster Horizontalis --------- RHS Gold Medal winner, self supporting, flowers, berries, shape ---what more is there ?
Cheers
Why won't my hydrangea's bloom??
The leaves are so big and healty but it wont make any flowers and I feed it every 2 weeks?? What can I do to make it bloom?
Why won't my hydrangea's bloom??
Is your lawn fertilizer washing over into the hydrangea's bed? If so, you will only get green leaves.
Are you sure you are using hydrangea fertilizer, and if so did you read the directions correctly?
Pruning, click this link:
http://www.hydrangeashydrangeas.com/prun...
Reply:Where is it planted? Although hydrangeas can tolerate partial shade, they really bloom best when in full sun. But that wouldn't account for no blooms at all.
Also, some hydrangeas only bloom from second year growth. So if you cut it back and only have first year growth, there will be no blooms.
That's all the help I can offer without knowing more about your specific plant and it's location. Check out the websites I listed under sources for more information.
Reply:Some varieties don't bloom year after year. The Mophead (rounded) varieties are notorious for not blooming year after year.
Also, a lack of blooms could be due to pruning at the wrong time.
There may be a general lack of Phosphorous in the soil, %26amp; too much Nitrogen may have caused a lot of leafy growth at the expense of blooms.
Or...sometimes hydrangea will leaf out early in the spring during a warm spell and then get caught in a late spring freeze. If the new growth came only from the ground, then types of hydrange that blooms only on old wood will not bloom this year.
The smooth hydrangea (Hydrangea arborescens), bloom on new wood so if you prune in late winter or early spring, you won't accidentally cut off this year's flowers. Others, like some mopheads and many big-leaf hydrangeas (H. macrophylla) bloom on old wood, so any late-season (or fall or winter) pruning you do erases next year's flowers.
You can "prune a third of the stems of mophead hydrangeas (H. macrophylla) to the ground after blooming and cut off flower heads when they become tattered. But do not prune the flowerless straight shoots without side branches because these are the ones that will branch out and flower next year."*
They are heavy feeders. To encourage flowering, use a fertilizer low in Nitrogen and with a Phosphorus content over 30. (An N-P-K ratio of 10-40-10 is ideal) %26amp; fertilize them regularly. Organic soil enriched with compost is best. If using store-bought fertilizers %26amp; you don't want to fuss with a scheduled feeding of fertilizer, you can also use a slow-release fertilizer like osmacote or use manure around your plants. Water on a regular basis.
Too much shade will also retard the development of flowers. Full sun can scorch the leaves so part sun to shade is best. Morning sun and afternoon shade is ideal. In frost zones, winter protection %26amp; planting in an area away from drying winter winds helps.
Good luck! Hope this helps.
Why won't my hydrangea's bloom??
Is your lawn fertilizer washing over into the hydrangea's bed? If so, you will only get green leaves.
Are you sure you are using hydrangea fertilizer, and if so did you read the directions correctly?
Pruning, click this link:
http://www.hydrangeashydrangeas.com/prun...
Reply:Where is it planted? Although hydrangeas can tolerate partial shade, they really bloom best when in full sun. But that wouldn't account for no blooms at all.
Also, some hydrangeas only bloom from second year growth. So if you cut it back and only have first year growth, there will be no blooms.
That's all the help I can offer without knowing more about your specific plant and it's location. Check out the websites I listed under sources for more information.
Reply:Some varieties don't bloom year after year. The Mophead (rounded) varieties are notorious for not blooming year after year.
Also, a lack of blooms could be due to pruning at the wrong time.
There may be a general lack of Phosphorous in the soil, %26amp; too much Nitrogen may have caused a lot of leafy growth at the expense of blooms.
Or...sometimes hydrangea will leaf out early in the spring during a warm spell and then get caught in a late spring freeze. If the new growth came only from the ground, then types of hydrange that blooms only on old wood will not bloom this year.
The smooth hydrangea (Hydrangea arborescens), bloom on new wood so if you prune in late winter or early spring, you won't accidentally cut off this year's flowers. Others, like some mopheads and many big-leaf hydrangeas (H. macrophylla) bloom on old wood, so any late-season (or fall or winter) pruning you do erases next year's flowers.
You can "prune a third of the stems of mophead hydrangeas (H. macrophylla) to the ground after blooming and cut off flower heads when they become tattered. But do not prune the flowerless straight shoots without side branches because these are the ones that will branch out and flower next year."*
They are heavy feeders. To encourage flowering, use a fertilizer low in Nitrogen and with a Phosphorus content over 30. (An N-P-K ratio of 10-40-10 is ideal) %26amp; fertilize them regularly. Organic soil enriched with compost is best. If using store-bought fertilizers %26amp; you don't want to fuss with a scheduled feeding of fertilizer, you can also use a slow-release fertilizer like osmacote or use manure around your plants. Water on a regular basis.
Too much shade will also retard the development of flowers. Full sun can scorch the leaves so part sun to shade is best. Morning sun and afternoon shade is ideal. In frost zones, winter protection %26amp; planting in an area away from drying winter winds helps.
Good luck! Hope this helps.
Can a Cardinal Mophead Hydrangea ever be turned blue or purple?
I accidentally planted it in my blue, purple and white themed garden. I live in South Carolina.
Can a Cardinal Mophead Hydrangea ever be turned blue or purple?
Epsom Salts is supposed to help change the color-- related to acid or alkali. Don't put the salts on the plant, just around on the ground. Less is better-- and you may get partial results this year. stir into the dirt--
good luck.
Oh-- epsom salts-- couple of tablespoons for each tomato plant-- try it.
Reply:I'm sorry not to be very knowledgeable about that, but I have heard that if you apply either acidic or alkaline substances to the soil that it will change the color of the blooms- hope this helps
Reply:I have heard if you bury rusty nails around the plant it will change colors.
may
Can a Cardinal Mophead Hydrangea ever be turned blue or purple?
Epsom Salts is supposed to help change the color-- related to acid or alkali. Don't put the salts on the plant, just around on the ground. Less is better-- and you may get partial results this year. stir into the dirt--
good luck.
Oh-- epsom salts-- couple of tablespoons for each tomato plant-- try it.
Reply:I'm sorry not to be very knowledgeable about that, but I have heard that if you apply either acidic or alkaline substances to the soil that it will change the color of the blooms- hope this helps
Reply:I have heard if you bury rusty nails around the plant it will change colors.
may
I received a blue hydrangea as a gift and need help on how to care in Wisconsin.?
Do I need to add anything to the potting soil to make stay blue? How and how much do I fertilize and do I use an acidic fertilizer like Miracid? Can I plant in the ground or is it best to leave in a container and bring indoors in fall?
I received a blue hydrangea as a gift and need help on how to care in Wisconsin.?
If this was a gift for Mother's Day and was bought from a florist or grocery store, it is considered an annual. You can put it in the gound, but it won't last the winter.
Your best bet is to get to a garden store and buy hydrangeas that will last through a Wisconsin winter. Endless Summer and Penny Mac are good ones to choose.
I live in Iowa and had my Endless summer in pots last year and put them in the garage for winter. One survived, the other didn't; and I don't know why.
Reply:Here is a site that will answer all of your questions. By the way, someone bought my daughter a hydrangea from the supermarket and I stuck it out in my yard 3 years ago, and it is doing beautifully. Good luck!http://www.hydrangeashydrangeas.com/colo...
I received a blue hydrangea as a gift and need help on how to care in Wisconsin.?
If this was a gift for Mother's Day and was bought from a florist or grocery store, it is considered an annual. You can put it in the gound, but it won't last the winter.
Your best bet is to get to a garden store and buy hydrangeas that will last through a Wisconsin winter. Endless Summer and Penny Mac are good ones to choose.
I live in Iowa and had my Endless summer in pots last year and put them in the garage for winter. One survived, the other didn't; and I don't know why.
Reply:Here is a site that will answer all of your questions. By the way, someone bought my daughter a hydrangea from the supermarket and I stuck it out in my yard 3 years ago, and it is doing beautifully. Good luck!http://www.hydrangeashydrangeas.com/colo...
How do you prune hydrangea plants?
Ok, from what I can see, it mostly depends on which types of hydrangeas you have. It appears that your most common hydrangeas (the ones the are either blue or pink depending on soil pH) set their buds in the end of the summer and those bloom buds are on old stems, not the new year's growth. SO, it is most prudent to prune before August, before they have started to set bud. Otherwise, you may have no blooms the following year. Trim off all dead limbs and dead buds. If you are to deadhead or trim for flower cuttings after the August time perios, only do so down to the first set of leaves as to not run the risk of cutting of next year's buds. After the plant is about 5 years old you can cut around a third of the old woody stems down to the ground.
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imax theater
How tall can a Hydrangea tree(Hyd. P.G.) grow?
How far does the root system go? Spreading and depth?Thanks
How tall can a Hydrangea tree(Hyd. P.G.) grow?
been working in the nursery for 20 years and the tellest i have ever seen one grow was 5 to 6 feet tall the root dont grow that deep thats why they are hard to dig and put a root ball on because there are not enough roots to hold it together work in a nursery in tennessee
Reply:Look here:
http://www.floridata.com/ref/h/hydr_pan....
How tall can a Hydrangea tree(Hyd. P.G.) grow?
been working in the nursery for 20 years and the tellest i have ever seen one grow was 5 to 6 feet tall the root dont grow that deep thats why they are hard to dig and put a root ball on because there are not enough roots to hold it together work in a nursery in tennessee
Reply:Look here:
http://www.floridata.com/ref/h/hydr_pan....
I have a blue hydrangea i would like to know if i should pick off old buds in fall of year?
Wow. I just found *the* site on pruning hydrangeas:
http://www.hydrangeashydrangeas.com/prun...
Amazingly thorough. It would make no sense just to repeat this, as the photos are very useful. And thanks for asking; now I know how to prune mine!
You need to look at this because, depending on your type of hydrangea, it blooms on either old wood or new. If it's an old-wood bloomer and you prune it hard like one answer suggested, you might not get any blooms next year. They probably have the other kind.
I have a blue hydrangea i would like to know if i should pick off old buds in fall of year?
According to everything I've read you should leave the flower heads on for the winter as they will help protect the new growth happening a little further down the stems. They say you should cut off the dead heads in the spring when the new growth gets going again.
Reply:I've always read that you cut hydrangeas down to about a 1-foot long cane in the winter, like you would do with roses. And all flowering plants bloom better when you cut off the dead-heads, regardless of what time of year it is.
Reply:When pruning the plant in the winter, any stems that flowers the previous season should be pruned back. Unflowered stems should not be pruned, as these will provide the flowers for the next year. Any dead stems or weak parts of the plant should also be pruned back at this time.
http://www.hydrangeashydrangeas.com/prun...
Amazingly thorough. It would make no sense just to repeat this, as the photos are very useful. And thanks for asking; now I know how to prune mine!
You need to look at this because, depending on your type of hydrangea, it blooms on either old wood or new. If it's an old-wood bloomer and you prune it hard like one answer suggested, you might not get any blooms next year. They probably have the other kind.
I have a blue hydrangea i would like to know if i should pick off old buds in fall of year?
According to everything I've read you should leave the flower heads on for the winter as they will help protect the new growth happening a little further down the stems. They say you should cut off the dead heads in the spring when the new growth gets going again.
Reply:I've always read that you cut hydrangeas down to about a 1-foot long cane in the winter, like you would do with roses. And all flowering plants bloom better when you cut off the dead-heads, regardless of what time of year it is.
Reply:When pruning the plant in the winter, any stems that flowers the previous season should be pruned back. Unflowered stems should not be pruned, as these will provide the flowers for the next year. Any dead stems or weak parts of the plant should also be pruned back at this time.
I bought a summer hydrangea. it says to plant in alkaline soil, how do get my soil to be alkaline soil?
Before adding anything, have a soil test done to make sure your soil is truly acidic. If you do have an acidic soil...with a pH of 6.5 or lower, then you will want to add lime to your soil...to bring the pH up to 7.5 or higher. Be careful not to add too much lime. You can make your soil toxic if you reach a pH of 9. Good luck...Is it a pink hydrangea or something?
I bought a summer hydrangea. it says to plant in alkaline soil, how do get my soil to be alkaline soil?
You can buy fertiliser with alkaline, however depending on where you live your soil may have enough already. Have a sample tested, usually you can get this done at your local college or garden store (a real garden store NOT Walmart!). Or you can add it by the old way, used coffee grounds.
Reply:Save yourself some time and money. Purchase a soil test kit from a garden center. You will then find out if your soil is already alkaline or acidic. Without knowing what type of soil you already have, you cannot amend it. The test kits are cheap, under $5 and super wasy to do.
With Hydrangeas you can plant in any soil you would like for bloomimg. If you like the blue/purple flowers it needs an acidic soil, if you want the pink ones it needs an alkaline soil. Be sure to test the area you wantto plant in for the best results. Good Luck
Reply:break open a few batteries and stick em' in the soil...and you've got yourself Alkaline soil...
Reply:You can prob get an idea of your soil and its pH from your local nursery (REAL nursery) and they can advise you accordingly. You can also get fertilizer formulated specifically for acid loving plants, of which there are actually many. Note: you CAN get organic fert. for acid loving plants.
I bought a summer hydrangea. it says to plant in alkaline soil, how do get my soil to be alkaline soil?
You can buy fertiliser with alkaline, however depending on where you live your soil may have enough already. Have a sample tested, usually you can get this done at your local college or garden store (a real garden store NOT Walmart!). Or you can add it by the old way, used coffee grounds.
Reply:Save yourself some time and money. Purchase a soil test kit from a garden center. You will then find out if your soil is already alkaline or acidic. Without knowing what type of soil you already have, you cannot amend it. The test kits are cheap, under $5 and super wasy to do.
With Hydrangeas you can plant in any soil you would like for bloomimg. If you like the blue/purple flowers it needs an acidic soil, if you want the pink ones it needs an alkaline soil. Be sure to test the area you wantto plant in for the best results. Good Luck
Reply:break open a few batteries and stick em' in the soil...and you've got yourself Alkaline soil...
Reply:You can prob get an idea of your soil and its pH from your local nursery (REAL nursery) and they can advise you accordingly. You can also get fertilizer formulated specifically for acid loving plants, of which there are actually many. Note: you CAN get organic fert. for acid loving plants.
I have a new hydrangea plant which has bloomed. Should I "dead head" it at this time?
It's always O.K. to deadhead. In the late summer and fall though, you want to leave as much foliage on the plant as possible. Plants store winter hardiness by processes going on in the leaves now, so just remove the spent flowers.
I have a new hydrangea plant which has bloomed. Should I "dead head" it at this time?
yes definitely
Reply:Carefully pinch off the old blooms so the plant has more energy.
Reply:hydrangeas are one of the best flowers for drying.they can be used in a dried flower arrangment.as mentioned earlier,they flower on old wood,meanig todays flower are on last years growth.when pruning only cut to the next bud.you can change the color of the flower by changing the alkelinity and the acidic levels in the soil.the more acidic the bluer the flower,the less acidic the more purple.of course a pee gee hydrangea is white.dead heading is more for annuals.though deadheading perenials will bring on extra blooms.there is also a hydrangea vine that flowers are similiar to lace hydrangea.it is a great screening vine because it stays full,with leaves and growth,right down to the ground.good luck and may your thumb stay green.
Reply:It's your choice, because it won't effect the health of the plant at all. If the dried blooms are unattractive, you can cut just the old flower head off. Don't cut any more than that or you will risk next year's flowers because almost all hydrangeas bloom on the previous year's growth. That means that the dormant little flower buds are in hiding just below where this year's blooms were. There is a new hydrangea called Endless Summer that blooms on old and new wood, but that's pretty unique in the hydrangea world.
For annual flowers, deadheading prolongs bloom because it prevents the plant from setting seed. But hydrangeas will not rebloom (except for Endless Summer) so that's not a consideration. (And, by the way, hydrangeas are woody shrubs, not bulbs; an earlier answer was a bit confused.) In colder climates, people often leave the old flowers on hydrangeas, because the cold zaps the tips of the plants, so the old flowers protect the next year's buds.
So unless you live in an area with harsh winters, do what looks best to you - just don't take too much off.
Reply:Yes, therefore it can put its energy into the bulb and making baby bulbs.
ben
I have a new hydrangea plant which has bloomed. Should I "dead head" it at this time?
yes definitely
Reply:Carefully pinch off the old blooms so the plant has more energy.
Reply:hydrangeas are one of the best flowers for drying.they can be used in a dried flower arrangment.as mentioned earlier,they flower on old wood,meanig todays flower are on last years growth.when pruning only cut to the next bud.you can change the color of the flower by changing the alkelinity and the acidic levels in the soil.the more acidic the bluer the flower,the less acidic the more purple.of course a pee gee hydrangea is white.dead heading is more for annuals.though deadheading perenials will bring on extra blooms.there is also a hydrangea vine that flowers are similiar to lace hydrangea.it is a great screening vine because it stays full,with leaves and growth,right down to the ground.good luck and may your thumb stay green.
Reply:It's your choice, because it won't effect the health of the plant at all. If the dried blooms are unattractive, you can cut just the old flower head off. Don't cut any more than that or you will risk next year's flowers because almost all hydrangeas bloom on the previous year's growth. That means that the dormant little flower buds are in hiding just below where this year's blooms were. There is a new hydrangea called Endless Summer that blooms on old and new wood, but that's pretty unique in the hydrangea world.
For annual flowers, deadheading prolongs bloom because it prevents the plant from setting seed. But hydrangeas will not rebloom (except for Endless Summer) so that's not a consideration. (And, by the way, hydrangeas are woody shrubs, not bulbs; an earlier answer was a bit confused.) In colder climates, people often leave the old flowers on hydrangeas, because the cold zaps the tips of the plants, so the old flowers protect the next year's buds.
So unless you live in an area with harsh winters, do what looks best to you - just don't take too much off.
Reply:Yes, therefore it can put its energy into the bulb and making baby bulbs.
ben
Why did my hydrangea blossoms start out blue, then turn green?
The "green problem" will overtake plants of either low or high PH... it's unkown why. It is a temporary problem.
The other users here are not 100 % correct and are missing the problem. Green blooms are a different situation over the normal blue and pinks... green is not a normal bloom.
Green color is not related directly to the PH... yes- the pinks and blues are.... It is yet unknown what causes Hydrangeas to turn green and it is considered to be a sympton to one or more problems.
It is proven to be temporary however.
It is suggested that adding boosters of your choice to the soil will encourage the green to "bloom out" and the plant to return to it's normal state or to what state you have encouraged.
There is a short blog here regrading this very problem.... http://www.hydrangeashydrangeas.com/gree...
I have two booklets regarding Hydrangea and they basically say the same thing in more technical terms.
(I have 17 hydrangeas on the property--- and it happens every once in a while here and there).
I noticed that the plants always are in very good health aside from the green dull color.
Good luck.
Why did my hydrangea blossoms start out blue, then turn green?
it means you have a high amount of acid in your soil. that also means that if you would like you can make them purple, by sticking a few older copper pennies in the ground by the root of the plant. its a very neat trick and your hydrangeas will be different from the rest of the neighborhood.
Reply:They simply turn green as they fade.They will go from green to brownish.Remove the flower head to promote new growth.
Reply:the acidity in the the soil causes the change in the color.
Reply:I'm not all that familiar with hydrangea. I just planted my first one this season, but I think it has something to do with the acidity of the soil.
According to this article all you have to do is add Aluminum Sulfate to your soil:
"Q: How can I keep the "blue" in my hydrangeas? What about fertilizing them?
Soils that contain aluminum and have a low acidity, a pH of 5.2 to 5.5, tend to produce hydrangeas that are bluish to purple. If the blue color seems to be fading from your hydrangeas, add aluminum sulfate, found at your home and garden stores, to the soil around your plants. The presence of aluminum in the soil is what makes them blue. By adding aluminum sulfate, you are lowering the pH of the soil, making the aluminum available to the plant...
Mix one tablespoon of aluminum sulfate per gallon of water needed and apply to plants during the growing season. This can be started as early as the first week in February, but it should not be too late to start the process now. Apply to plants that are already moist to avoid burning the roots.
A light, half-dose of an azalea-camellia fertilizer, applied a few times during the growing season will help keep your hydrangeas healthy, while at the same time help the soil maintain a lower pH"
The other users here are not 100 % correct and are missing the problem. Green blooms are a different situation over the normal blue and pinks... green is not a normal bloom.
Green color is not related directly to the PH... yes- the pinks and blues are.... It is yet unknown what causes Hydrangeas to turn green and it is considered to be a sympton to one or more problems.
It is proven to be temporary however.
It is suggested that adding boosters of your choice to the soil will encourage the green to "bloom out" and the plant to return to it's normal state or to what state you have encouraged.
There is a short blog here regrading this very problem.... http://www.hydrangeashydrangeas.com/gree...
I have two booklets regarding Hydrangea and they basically say the same thing in more technical terms.
(I have 17 hydrangeas on the property--- and it happens every once in a while here and there).
I noticed that the plants always are in very good health aside from the green dull color.
Good luck.
Why did my hydrangea blossoms start out blue, then turn green?
it means you have a high amount of acid in your soil. that also means that if you would like you can make them purple, by sticking a few older copper pennies in the ground by the root of the plant. its a very neat trick and your hydrangeas will be different from the rest of the neighborhood.
Reply:They simply turn green as they fade.They will go from green to brownish.Remove the flower head to promote new growth.
Reply:the acidity in the the soil causes the change in the color.
Reply:I'm not all that familiar with hydrangea. I just planted my first one this season, but I think it has something to do with the acidity of the soil.
According to this article all you have to do is add Aluminum Sulfate to your soil:
"Q: How can I keep the "blue" in my hydrangeas? What about fertilizing them?
Soils that contain aluminum and have a low acidity, a pH of 5.2 to 5.5, tend to produce hydrangeas that are bluish to purple. If the blue color seems to be fading from your hydrangeas, add aluminum sulfate, found at your home and garden stores, to the soil around your plants. The presence of aluminum in the soil is what makes them blue. By adding aluminum sulfate, you are lowering the pH of the soil, making the aluminum available to the plant...
Mix one tablespoon of aluminum sulfate per gallon of water needed and apply to plants during the growing season. This can be started as early as the first week in February, but it should not be too late to start the process now. Apply to plants that are already moist to avoid burning the roots.
A light, half-dose of an azalea-camellia fertilizer, applied a few times during the growing season will help keep your hydrangeas healthy, while at the same time help the soil maintain a lower pH"
Friday, January 27, 2012
Why did my hydrangea blossoms start out blue, then turn green?
The "green problem" will overtake plants of either low or high PH... it's unkown why. It is a temporary problem.
The other users here are not 100 % correct and are missing the problem. Green blooms are a different situation over the normal blue and pinks... green is not a normal bloom.
Green color is not related directly to the PH... yes- the pinks and blues are.... It is yet unknown what causes Hydrangeas to turn green and it is considered to be a sympton to one or more problems.
It is proven to be temporary however.
It is suggested that adding boosters of your choice to the soil will encourage the green to "bloom out" and the plant to return to it's normal state or to what state you have encouraged.
There is a short blog here regrading this very problem.... http://www.hydrangeashydrangeas.com/gree...
I have two booklets regarding Hydrangea and they basically say the same thing in more technical terms.
(I have 17 hydrangeas on the property--- and it happens every once in a while here and there).
I noticed that the plants always are in very good health aside from the green dull color.
Good luck.
Why did my hydrangea blossoms start out blue, then turn green?
it means you have a high amount of acid in your soil. that also means that if you would like you can make them purple, by sticking a few older copper pennies in the ground by the root of the plant. its a very neat trick and your hydrangeas will be different from the rest of the neighborhood.
Reply:They simply turn green as they fade.They will go from green to brownish.Remove the flower head to promote new growth.
Reply:the acidity in the the soil causes the change in the color.
Reply:I'm not all that familiar with hydrangea. I just planted my first one this season, but I think it has something to do with the acidity of the soil.
According to this article all you have to do is add Aluminum Sulfate to your soil:
"Q: How can I keep the "blue" in my hydrangeas? What about fertilizing them?
Soils that contain aluminum and have a low acidity, a pH of 5.2 to 5.5, tend to produce hydrangeas that are bluish to purple. If the blue color seems to be fading from your hydrangeas, add aluminum sulfate, found at your home and garden stores, to the soil around your plants. The presence of aluminum in the soil is what makes them blue. By adding aluminum sulfate, you are lowering the pH of the soil, making the aluminum available to the plant...
Mix one tablespoon of aluminum sulfate per gallon of water needed and apply to plants during the growing season. This can be started as early as the first week in February, but it should not be too late to start the process now. Apply to plants that are already moist to avoid burning the roots.
A light, half-dose of an azalea-camellia fertilizer, applied a few times during the growing season will help keep your hydrangeas healthy, while at the same time help the soil maintain a lower pH"
The other users here are not 100 % correct and are missing the problem. Green blooms are a different situation over the normal blue and pinks... green is not a normal bloom.
Green color is not related directly to the PH... yes- the pinks and blues are.... It is yet unknown what causes Hydrangeas to turn green and it is considered to be a sympton to one or more problems.
It is proven to be temporary however.
It is suggested that adding boosters of your choice to the soil will encourage the green to "bloom out" and the plant to return to it's normal state or to what state you have encouraged.
There is a short blog here regrading this very problem.... http://www.hydrangeashydrangeas.com/gree...
I have two booklets regarding Hydrangea and they basically say the same thing in more technical terms.
(I have 17 hydrangeas on the property--- and it happens every once in a while here and there).
I noticed that the plants always are in very good health aside from the green dull color.
Good luck.
Why did my hydrangea blossoms start out blue, then turn green?
it means you have a high amount of acid in your soil. that also means that if you would like you can make them purple, by sticking a few older copper pennies in the ground by the root of the plant. its a very neat trick and your hydrangeas will be different from the rest of the neighborhood.
Reply:They simply turn green as they fade.They will go from green to brownish.Remove the flower head to promote new growth.
Reply:the acidity in the the soil causes the change in the color.
Reply:I'm not all that familiar with hydrangea. I just planted my first one this season, but I think it has something to do with the acidity of the soil.
According to this article all you have to do is add Aluminum Sulfate to your soil:
"Q: How can I keep the "blue" in my hydrangeas? What about fertilizing them?
Soils that contain aluminum and have a low acidity, a pH of 5.2 to 5.5, tend to produce hydrangeas that are bluish to purple. If the blue color seems to be fading from your hydrangeas, add aluminum sulfate, found at your home and garden stores, to the soil around your plants. The presence of aluminum in the soil is what makes them blue. By adding aluminum sulfate, you are lowering the pH of the soil, making the aluminum available to the plant...
Mix one tablespoon of aluminum sulfate per gallon of water needed and apply to plants during the growing season. This can be started as early as the first week in February, but it should not be too late to start the process now. Apply to plants that are already moist to avoid burning the roots.
A light, half-dose of an azalea-camellia fertilizer, applied a few times during the growing season will help keep your hydrangeas healthy, while at the same time help the soil maintain a lower pH"
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