Friday, January 27, 2012

Any ideas on how to make a Hydrangea bloom?

It is in part sun/ part shade. It looks happy where it is. The foliage looks very healthy but, no blooms.. How do I make it bloom?

Any ideas on how to make a Hydrangea bloom?
You could try some Miracle Gro Quickstart.



I had the same problem, but mine was facing west and got way too much sun and the leaves almost burned. I am told you need to plant them facing north. Just need sun but it sounds like you have planted it just in the right spot. If it was blooming when you got it, it may be finished blooming for awhile; therefore, the Miracle Gro Quick Start suggestion.



Good luck. I adore hydrangeas.
Reply:Most common reasons a hydrangea won't bloom



Pruning at the wrong time during the season and eliminating the flower buds. My advice is to not prune your hydrangeas other than simple removal of spent flowers which will be pruned off just below the flower itself at the next lower set of buds. You may prune the tops of your hydrangeas after the active growth begins in spring and it is obvious what is dead and what is not. Be careful because even now I am still speculating that certain buds are dead only to notice a few weeks later that the bud I thought was dead is now a stem in active growth. Remember that paniculatas and arborescens can be pruned as they flower off of new growth. There are also some varieties of macrophylla that bloom off of new wood and can be pruned in late season. Those varieties are: 'All Summer Beauty', 'Penny Mac'; and 'Endless Summer'. It is these hydrangeas that are confusing everybody as to what, when and where to prune or not prune. Don't put yourself in a situation where you are forced to prune. Be patient in the spring and wait for all buds to return before pruning the tips.



Too cold of a climate for successful hydrangea flowering. If you are in zone 5 you will not have luck with 95% of the available mopheads on the market. If your neighbors do not have hydrangeas, other than pee gees or annabelles, you are more than likely in too cold of an area for successful bud return. What confuses things is that the climate seems to be changing and zone lines may shift from year to year. We also are experiencing el nino every 7 years or so and this is causing variations in our winters from mild one year to severe the next year. While the hydrangeas will grow like crazy and give you lots of great foliage, the buds will always burn in a normal zone 5 winter.



Planted in heavy shade. Too much shade can be a cause of non flowering simply because of the lack of energy from the sun. You will notice less flowers gradually as the years go on. Transplant to a sunnier location.



Severe dry spells the season before can and does cause the hydrange to not flower. This can be avoided by choosing a location that is not too sunny and by adding some sort of irrigation system



Use of a high Nitrogen fertilizer will promote lush new growth at the expense of flower production. Use a balanced (10-10-10) slow release, granular fertilizer %26amp; don't over do it.
Reply:If it is a fully grown plant (there for a few years), it probably needs a sunnier spot to be able to bloom.



The other thing I can think of is, many species of young plants just need to grow up more before blooming.



But I have found hydrangeas (even young ones!) very eager to bloom, so I am a bit puzzled by yours. I think the shadiness must be the problem.
Reply:Hydrangeas require full sun and adequate moisture for best bloom. If you are meeting these needs, the only other obvious cause for lack of bloom is improperly timed pruning. Prune the plants immediately after bloom, so that new growth will be able to develop flower buds in the fall. Pruning in the spring or early summer removes the fall developed flower buds, preventing bloom for that year.



Bigleaf hydrangea responds to several light applications of fertilizer during the growing season. A general-purpose fertilizer, such as 8-8-8 or 10-10-10 applied at a rate of one pound (2 cups) per 100 square feet in March, May and July is suggested. It is not necessary to remove the mulch when fertilizing, but water soon after application to help dissolve the fertilizer and send it into the soil.


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